BERGENNorway
Welcome to a city of sevens. It is surrounded by seven hulking mountains and borders seven glassy fjords, including Sognefjord, the longest and deepest in the country. Norway’s second city is the most northerly on our list, as well as the most wild. Winter hits hard here. The mercury rarely rises above -10C and frozen winds whip off the North Sea, making it feel even colder. In light of this, it’s not surprising that the coming of spring makes its residents want to sing. Bergen is home to a leading jazz festival in May as well as an award-winning orchestra and choir, a new wave of electronic DJs and one of the leading Romantic composers, Edvard Grieg, who attributed much of his inspiration to the beautiful landscape that surrounds the city. Most of the fjord trips restart on 1 May. Slide through the Aurlandsfjord on a kayak, wander beneath clouds of blossom in the fruit orchards of Hardangerfjord and spot sea eagles soaring between the sheer cliffs that line Naerøyfjord. At the end of May, scarlet splodges of wild strawberries dot the forests and local families often spend their weekends foraging. From the time it was founded 900 years ago, the harbour has been Bergen’s nucleus. It was from here that the Vikings set off in their long boats to wreak the wars they spun into beautiful Norse sagas, and also where Hanseatic merchants loaded their ships with salt. Today, its mustard yellow buildings are the centre of the town’s spring social life.
WHAT TO DO
Bergen International Festival between 24 May-7 June is the most prolific music and theatre celebration in Scandinavia. This year there will be 250 events, including a piano recital from superstar Lang Lang, folk ballads from Sondre Bratland and a performance of Carmen choreographed by Carlos Acosta. fib.no Natjazz is the biggest jazz festival in northern Europe. From 26 May-4 June, smooth, sultry strains will bring a slice of New Orleans to Norway. Ralph Myerz and Moon Hooch are already confirmed, and many more are expected. nightjazz.no
Seven Mountains walking tour happens annually on the last Sunday in May. Locals greet spring by hiking 30km from Laksevaag to Sandviksfjellet, across all seven of their guardian peaks with a total ascent of 2,300 metres. The four mountains hike is a good alternative for the slightly less hearty.
WHERE TO MEET AND EAT
Cornelius Seafood Restaurant serves an Eat The Fjords lunch menu from May. Catch the boat from Bryggen to Bjorøy Island, where foraged seaweed and home-smoked fish are dished up in the glass dining room. corneliusrestaurant.no
Fish Me has been a stalwart of the market for 25 years. Everything in the wet fish counter is local (don’t miss persetorsk, Bergen’s answer to cod) and the restaurant’s terrace is a few metres from the harbour’s edge. fishme.no
Fløien Folkerestaurant has perched atop Mount Fløyen since 1925. Catch the funicular railway from the town centre and enjoy a slab of kvaefjordkake (Norway’s national cake) with strawberries on the huge terrace. Its summer restaurant, a selfservice sandwich bar, reopens in May. floienfolkerestaurant.no