Where to eat

Prices are per person for three courses, without wine unless stated

Bistro Yamashirogyu Beef boiled communally at the table is special here, with cuts from locally reared livestock. The shikuwasa (citrus) sour to drink with the meal is refreshing – and addictive. From £45. 029 900-0032 Naha, 00 81 98 988 9161, gurunavi.com/en/f397001/rst Café Garamanjyaku Kiyoko’s Ryukyu restaurant is refined – take that for granted: the cedarwood walls, the lush garden setting and the care and attention taken over every detail of decoration. The focus, however, is on her sublime cooking. The specials comprise dishes balanced for texture and colour that reflect 40 years of experimenting with wild plants and herbs. Your miso dip may well have been infused with over 30 herbs, vegetables and fruits. From £35. 10507-4 Kin, Kunigami District,

00 81 98 968 8846, garamanjyaku.ti-da.net

Café Soy Labo Interesting neighbourhood diner that’s the annex of an artisanal tofu factory. There’s a playroom for kids, low tables and a loungelike space for middle-class mums. The mainly veggie food is tasty too. From £18. 86-1 Ikeda, Nishihara Town, 00 81 98 943 2230

Chura-Hana Pick your fish at Makishi Market, then take it to Chura-Hana, the best of the food-court eating places, to prepare. From £15. Naha Emi-no-Mise In Ogimi village, this restaurant’s patronne Emi is a relative baby at 68. She’s written a cookery book featuring the most ancient villagers’ recipes and several figure on her ‘longevity menu’. From £40.

61 Okanehisa, Ogimi Village, 00 81 98 044 3220

Misomeshiya Marutama Mr Tamanaha’s nephew runs a diner that showcases miso. Dishes are as much influenced by the West as Japan. From £25. 1F, 2-4-3, Izumizaki, Naha, 00 81 98 831 7656 Nagadoya Omoromachi This shabu-shabu restaurant specialises in Okinawa agu pork. If you’ve eaten shabu-shabu in Europe, don’t be put off – this is the real deal. From £25. 4-17-17 Omoromachi, Ogimi Village; 1-2F Hirayama Bldg, Naha, 00 81 98 917 0206

Shimujo Okinawan soba is made with wheat, and the noodles here are made with water purified over ash from banyan trees. The dashi mixed with pork stock is rich and well-flavoured. Cheapish and delicious. From £25. 2-124-1 Shuri Sueyoshicho, Naha, 00 81 98 884 1933

Urizun Open for 40 years, it’s still vibrant, modern and packed with the cool set of Naha. It stocks awamori from every distiller on the islands, with one that’s 70% ABV. The food is as tasty as it comes on Okinawa’s main island. From £35, including a 160ml pitcher of awamori. Get a Japanese speaker to make the booking. Asato 388-5, Naha, 00 81 98 885 2178