Food and Travel (UK) - - 200 th Issue -

Over the past 20 years there’s been a huge re­vival in Bri­tish cheese­mak­ing. Req­ui­si­tion dur­ing the Sec­ond World War meant cheese­mak­ers should only man­u­fac­ture Gov­ern­ment Ched­dar, of ‘uni­form taste and qual­ity’ which nearly killed the in­dus­try. The ar­ti­san re­vival has grown ex­po­nen­tially. Now we’re see­ing her­itage recipes rein­tro­duced and cheeses that com­bine Euro­pean tech­niques with Bri­tish in­gre­di­ents. In

2009, the num­ber of Bri­tish cheese va­ri­etals out­num­bered French for the first time. ‘Good cheese is ex­pres­sive of where it is from,’ says Hero Hirsh, man­ager of Pax­ton & Whit­field. ‘You can taste cow pars­ley on the rind of Lin­colnshire’s Cote Hill Cheese as it grows in the fields where the cows graze.’

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