Where to eat
Prices are per person for three courses and two drinks, unless otherwise stated
Baracoando Theatre-set-beautiful paladar (private restaurant) on the edge of town where vegetarian supremo Aristides Smith prepares a buffet dinner of foraged and organic delights nightly. Around £4, not including alcohol, plus a donation. Maceo 96 y, Cerca de Via Azul (entrance through back patio), 00 53 21 642199
Bar de Tato Classic Caribbean feet-in-the-sand affair providing good fruit cocktails and juices and a delicious smorgasbord of super-fresh fish and seafood. Around £8. Playa Manglito beach, 00 53 53 628584
Cafeteria Victor Let Victor welcome you into his little blue house right at the end of the beach, so you can feast on mammoth portions of freshly caught snapper in coconut sauce, tostones (fried plantain) and passion fruit mojitos. Around £9. Casa de Victor, Playa Maguana, no telephone or website; just go to the beach and ask for Victor
La Cocina de Ortiz Local Ineldis Trutié Ortiz, who returned home to Baracoa after having trained in Havana’s best restaurants, hasn’t opened his restaurant yet, but will cook in a friend’s restaurant for you, or at home. Around £12, not including alcohol. Calle Rafael Trejo 15; 00 58 00 1237/00 53 55 800 1237 (mobile), email ortizwhite@nauta.cu
El Edén Family permaculture farm 25km from Baracoa town where meals can be arranged by appointment using the freshest organic farm-to-plate ingredients. Suggested donation for farm visit and meal £8pp. Quibiján, no telephone; book through cubaprivatetravel.com
El Poeta, Baracoa Romantic little paladar with a vintage record player turning out bolero. Local dishes include a Taino-inspired tamales and homemade ice cream served in a cacao pod. Around £15. Calle Antonio
Maceo, entrance via Ciro Frias y Cespedes, 00 53 21 643017 Rancho Toa, Baracoa An idyllic thatched restaurant serving up ajiaco soups (root vegetables laced with pork); bacán perdido, calalú (callaloo) curries, and more. Around £12. Mouth of the River Toa on the Moa road, 00 53 21 645224; no telephone; book through cubaprivatetravel.com