Fine fish in Dulwich, Ducasse on the Seine, three brilliant bistros and why Roka’s still got it

Petit Coco Bistro

Cheltenham

This cosy cellar setting is as authentic as it gets. In true bistro style, the menu of French classics changes daily. Sip on a fruity glass of Château de Montmirail Vacqueyras while you peruse l’ardoise

– a handwritten chalkboard menu filled with a dozen starters and mains. While Lilliputian in size, the carte du jour serves up some big flavours. An oozy, airy Comté soufflé is the pick of the starters, followed by melt-in-the-mouth lamb navarin and blushing magret de canard for mains. Offering incredible value and with only 20-odd seats, it gets busy, so do book ahead. SS. petitcoco.co.uk

Bistro Union

Clapham

Enter the floral-festooned Abbeville Village facade of this neighbourhood joint – by Trinity chef Adam Byatt – to discover a good range of small plates alongside heartier dishes, all of it bursting with Mediterranean élan. Salty Fine de Claire oysters come by the dozen, fat mussels are Cornwall’s finest and a well-curated charcuterie plate represents great value at £10. We feast on a fine cassoulet of duck with smoked ham, followed by an outlandishly good chocolate cremosa, toffee popcorn and ice cream dessert. Free corkage on Sunday evenings is a bonus. BG. bistrounion.co.uk

Petit Pois

Brighton

You’ll find all the Gallic classics here, from garlicky snails to crisp frogs’ legs goujons, but it’s the elevated kitchen table favourites that deserve your attention at this understated Brighton Lanes bistro. Step under the sign of le coq on Ship Street, to uncover provincial French cooking at its best, from creamy artichoke

barigoule to a standout guinea fowl casserole brimming with the earthy flavours of white truffle, mushrooms and lardons. Finish with a trio of crème brûlée and, for a very French finale, a selection of cheese picked from the regularly changing list. LK. petitpoisbrighton.co.uk