BUENOS AIRES AND MENDOZA, ARGENTINA
BLOSSOM GREEN, ACTING EDITOR Beguiling streets, waves of sultry heat, a vibrant art scene, and the perfume of fired-up parillas, all punctuated by the ellipsis of a tango beat: what’s not tempting about Argentina’s lively capital? Its moniker the ‘Paris of South America’ says everything about its slant. Constantly reimagining itself, it’s a city of many faces; each of its 48 barrios offering a snapshot of local life in its own right. Their origins sit firmly in the colonial era, when, in the face of urban sprawl, each housed a pulpería – bars known for hosting aperitivo hour, something porteños (and my household) honour like law – providing a sense of community.
Whatever your fancy, there is a pocket of BA for everyone. Take jacaranda-lined Palermo, for example, with its throng of on-the-pulse bars, craft breweries, modern art museum, polo clubs and boutique design digs. Or Recoleta, resplendent in old-money grandeur, home to the dramatic Cementerio de la Recoleta, luxurious hotels and café-lined squares. Smart Puerto Madero’s plentiful green spaces include the Costanera Sur Ecological Reserve, while historic La Barca boasts a colourful hodgepodge of painted buildings. Pulsing San Telmo – old school at heart with its Sunday antique markets – champions the city’s night hawks with jazz clubs and tango shows – I’ll report back on whether I hit the dance floor myself… As for the food, Caballito’s Mercado del Progreso is high on my list, with vendors serving everything from tender slow-cooked Argentine steaks, grills and picadas, to empanadas, tamales and Italianinspired deli classics – a legacy of 19th-century immigrants.
If, like me, you’ve discovered a penchant for Argentinian reds during lockdown, a twin-centre trip to take in the sweeping landscape and cutting-edge wine resorts around Mendoza is just the ticket. For those of us who rarely get above third gear in the city, a road trip adds an appealing dimension. The 11-hour route takes in swathes of open road as the foothills of the Andes unfurl. Maipú and Luján both boast wineries showcasing inky, fruity malbecs and tropical-noted torrontés. But the Uco Valley’s Vine Resort vineresortsandspa.com – its restaurant led by cooking-over-flame guru Francis Mallmann – pips it for me. Because that’s what travel’s about: great food, quality wine, unique experiences, glorious scenery and good times.