Food and Travel (UK)

Cold sour tomato soup

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SERVES 6 1.5 litres fermented yellow tomato sauce (see recipe, below)

360ml gin (60ml per person) few drops habanero sauce (optional)

For the kohlrabi 2 small kohlrabi

100ml elderflowe­r vinegar, alternativ­ely champagne vinegar or apple cider vinegar

To serve smoked tomatoes and a little of the oil (see recipe, right) multigrain crackers elderflowe­rs (optional)

Peel and dice the kohlrabi into bite-sized pieces. Put the cubes of kohlrabi in a bowl then add the vinegar and salt and leave to soak for around 1 hour.

Thoroughly mix the fermented tomato sauce with the gin and habanero sauce, if using, in a jug.

Pour around 300ml of soup into each bowl, add 3-4 smoked tomatoes and drizzle a little of the smoked oil on top. Finish with 2tbsp of kohlrabi cubes, multigrain crackers and some elderflowe­rs, if they are in season.

Fermented yellow tomato sauce

MAKES 1 LARGE JAR 1kg yellow tomatoes 100g celery stalks

24g salt, without iodine

For the white kimchi 1tbsp rice flour

50g light miso paste

2 shallots, coarsely chopped 1 white or yellow medium carrot, coarsely chopped

50g coarsely chopped radishes (around 3-4mm) approx. 6g fresh ginger

25g coarsely chopped garlic 1 mild white chilli, such as ajì pepper, around 25g 1 x 1.5 litre-capacity sterilised clip-top preserving jar with a rubber seal, such as a Kilner jar

First, make the kimchi. Pour

500ml water and rice flour into a saucepan and bring to the boil. Stir constantly to ensure there are no lumps. Reduce the heat and add the miso paste. Stir in and leave to simmer for around 5 minutes. Remove the saucepan from the heat and allow to cool. You can leave the mixture to chill overnight.

Add the shallots, carrots, radishes, ginger and garlic to a food processor and mix into a fine purée. If it is stiff, you can add a little splash of water.

Pour the rice flour mixture, the vegetable purée and chillies into a glass jar and mix thoroughly. Keep chilled. You will have more than required for this recipe – the surplus can be frozen and used at a later date in another recipe.

Rinse and halve the tomatoes. Clean the celery and slice it thinly. Put the tomatoes and celery in a bowl and massage in the salt. Apply plenty of pressure to the tomatoes so that they release liquid. Leave to stand at room temperatur­e for at least 1 hour. Stir and apply pressure occasional­ly. Pour 200ml of the kimchi base into the bowl and mix using your hands.

Pour the mixture into the preserving jar, but leave 2-3cm of air at the top. Fill a plastic bag with some water, knot the bag and add it on top as a weight. Close the lid and seal with the bracket. Place the jar on a plate and ideally stand it in a plastic bag since it is very likely that some liquid will be ejected (make sure you don’t seal the bag at the top).

Leave the jar to stand at room temperatur­e for 5-7 days.

After this time, chill for a few days. Then, pour it into a bowl and blend until smooth. Strain the sauce and pour into sterilised bottles. Keep chilled.

Smoked tomatoes

MAKES 1 JAR 500g tomatoes

1 garlic bulb, halved widthways fresh mixed herbs, such as rosemary and thyme rind 1 unwaxed lemon

200ml rapeseed

½tsp salt 100-200g smoker chips sterilised glass jar

Light the barbecue. Get a large baking tray and a smaller heatproof plate with a 1-1½cm high edge (the edge cannot be higher than the one on the large baking tray). Place a thin layer of smoker chips in the bottom of the large baking tray, then place the smaller plate in the tray. Position the tomatoes, garlic, herbs and grated lemon rind on the smaller plate. Drizzle with the oil and sprinkle with the salt. Cover with tinfoil and place the baking tray with the plate on the grill while there are still flames. After a few minutes, the chips will begin to smoke and the smoke will seep out from under the foil (if the smoke doesn’t seep out, you can unfold the foil a little at one corner to check it is smoking). Remove the baking tray from the grill when it begins to smoke and leave it to stand on the ground for a few minutes. Repeat this step 3-4 times. Remove the foil to check whether the tomatoes and oil have taken on colour. Otherwise, repeat the procedure a few more times.

Place the smoked tomatoes in a sterilised glass jar, pour the oil over and seal the jar. If you like, you can fry the tomatoes quickly in some oil just before serving – this will add heat to the tomatoes and the flavours will blossom again.

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