RIESLING revisited, plus four must-trys

THE GRAPE

This white grape has a lengthy timeline, dating back to the 15th century and the city of Worms in Germany's Upper Rhine. Riesling is still the leading grape in the country, as it does well in cooler climates and sandy clay or slate soil. Those left on the vines for late harvest go to make the sweet, higher-alcohol dessert wines.

THE TASTE

Don’t mistake sweeter German wines of the 1980s with today's rieslings. They have fresh apple and citrus through to stone fruit and tropical pineapple and mango flavours, with notes of petrol in aged bottles.

THE PAIRINGS

Acidity and sweetness in wine are potent weapons in food pairing. They help cut through fatty and oily foods, while softening spice. Foie gras, rich duck, pork chops and spicy foods are all perfect partners. The sweet and sour flavours of Thai and Chinese are a good match, as are pretty much all desserts.

THE VINES

Germany is the big gun of riesling, with a quarter of its vines given over to it. In Alsace, France, it's a fifth of the yield. It’s second only to grüner veltliner in Austria. The cooler valleys of Australia and New Zealand's South Island are notable producers.