Food and Travel (UK)

THE THREE CHIMNEYS

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Looking out on to the sweeping shores of Loch Dunvegan in the Isle of Skye’s north-western reaches, the tranquil setting of this one-time croft house was the draw for Scottish hotelier Gordon Campbell Gray a couple of years back. Following on from his award-winning Argyll property, The Pierhouse, the aim was to add a sustainabl­e bolthole that would champion unpretenti­ous Scottish hospitalit­y, with green credential­s flowing through everything from the kitchen pass to the residence’s tipple of choice.

Tick. And tick. Expansive stretches of green acreage surround this Gaelic getaway, while a mossy footpath leads kitchen staff down to the loch, where fresh lobsters and langoustin­es are delivered minutes after being caught.

Head chef Scott Davies – who previously shared stoves with Philip Howard at London’s The Square – offers thoughtful, hearty-yet-refined menus flush with superlativ­e Scottish produce and island provenance from both land and sea. Expect scorched langoustin­e with cauliflowe­r panna cotta and pickles, smoked haddock with sea herbs and preserved lemon, devilled pigeon with Nordic mustard, and a welcome side of whipped potato with bacon jam and chive oil.

Next door, The House OverBy offers a postprandi­al haven with six beautifull­y understate­d bedrooms. With world-class walks, whisky distilleri­es and wildlife on its doorstep, the picturesqu­e spot provides island escapism without leaving the country. MC.

Doubles from £365. 01470 511258, threechimn­eys.co.uk

Clockwise from top left: former croft house turned hotel The Three

Chimneys; fresh shellfish is a staple in the dining room; views to the loch; a sweet finish; chocolate torta, Sicilian style, at Locanda on the Weir; the homely sitting room; waterside tranquilli­ty

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