ON THE RIGHT TRACK
What better way to combine the very best of Swiss Valais' panoramic mountain scenery and authentic cuisine than with a 'gourmet ticket' on the iconic Gornergrat Bahn
Come June each year, the narrow gauge railway line from Zermatt to Gornergrat, rumbles to life with visitors keen to mark the start of summer season on the Gornergrat Bahn. Operating all year, it's part of the iconic Matterhorn Gotthard Bahn network and was the country's first fully electric, open-air cog railway line when it launched in 1898. But this is no ordinary train journey: the loop line – which undulates via Riffelalp and Riffelberg – provides access to some of the area's finest hiking routes, and a Gourmet Ticket on this beacon to Valaisan cuisine incorporates stop-offs at three exemplary local restaurants, too.
It's a 'jump on, jump off' scenario which ensures you get time to explore some of the glorious natural surrounds while sampling archetypal dishes of the Valais region in one breathtaking swoop. Starting in the valley at Zermatt, the scenic train climbs a steep 1,469m to its summit at Gornergrat. Flanked by larchwood and pine forests, picture-postcard mountain lakes and rocky ravines, the train skirts through a number of dramatic tunnels and bridges (including the Findelbach Viaduct) along the way. It's an impressive backdrop already, but add to that the fact that it also takes in 29 peaks each towering above 4,000m and you've got something really special.
From Zermatt, it's just over a 30-minute ride to the evergreen 3100 Kulmhotel, the first stop on your gourmet adventure. Carved into the mountainside arrival at Gornergrat – the highest outdoor station in Europe at 3,131m – brings the snow-capped Matterhorn into what seems like touching distance. A viewing platform provides 360-degree views of the Dufourspitze, Monte Rosa massif and Gorner Glacier (the Alps' second largest), plus the odd wild ibex, before cocktails and speciality Valaisan canapés on 3100 Kulmhotel's glorious sun terrace.
Afterwards, you've two choices: hop on the next train down the mountain to the three-course lunch that awaits at the traditional Riffelahus 1853, or hike there on foot. The hour-long walking route passes Riffelsee, where, on still, clear days, you might be lucky enough to catch the mirror-image reflection of the Matterhorn on its surface. Whichever you go for, expect a warm welcome at Riffelhaus. It's Zermatt's oldest mountain hotel – est. 1853 – and is a vanguard of the canton's classic cuisine. Surrounded by unique summer flowers which grow only here, it makes for a quintessentially Alpine setting in which to enjoy Swiss specialities like assiette Valaisanne with Valais dried meat IGP, Valais cured ham IGP, Valais cured bacon IGP, Valais cured sausage, Raclette du Valais AOP and Valais rye bread AOP; veal cordon bleu with Alpine cheese; fondue or Valais rösti featuring regional cheese, onion and a fried egg all washed down with a glass of Valais wine.
Finish on a sweet note courtesy of mountain hut restaurant Alphitta on Riffelalp, the last stop on your gourmet adventure. The youthful team bring modern flair to regional classics using the best local produce. Dessert might be a strudel, cherry pie (the canton's Burlat variety is in its prime in June) or something equally delicious. After, take a speciality coffee on the sun-drenched terrace and soak up every last drop of the mountain before the final rail ride back to Zermatt.
Striking the perfect balance of adventure, unforgettable scenery, and high-quality regional cooking, it makes for a day trip that will leave a lasting memory for years to come. To find out more information and to book tickets visit gornergratbahn.ch and visitvalais.ch/shop