Insider’s Valencia
Baroque and art deco share the skyline of an area once visited by few outsiders, but this barrio has found its way on to eastern spain’s gastronomic map, says Mónica Goya
The aroma of citrus blossoms drifting throughout Valencia on the warm Mediterranean breeze is the cue for your senses to come alive. And nowhere better than Russafa, a vibrant area branching south from the city centre that’s renowned for its iconic food market dating back to the Fifties. Latterly, the neighbourhood has transformed from an under-appreciated quarter to a district bustling with independent restaurants, shops, art galleries and cool cafés. Not that it’s been without influence over the years – it has provided inspiration for the likes of painter Joaquín Sorolla who was born there in 1863.
Wander through the Parque Central – still a work-inprogress, designed by American landscape architect Kathryn Gustafson, it pays homage to the area’s Arab heritage and is home to cultural spaces such as the old-railway-inspired Ribes Espai. Follow up with the Mercat de Russafa food market, housed in a colourful brutalist 1957 building that has become a landmark of the barrio. Seconds away, on the site of a former mosque, stands the San
Valero Church, a 17th-century baroque building rebuilt after the Spanish Civil War. Look out for art deco influences across the city, too, including the Jewish House with its imaginative facade.
Make sure you save time to explore the numerous art galleries, like Color Elefante, founded by artist Carles Albert Casanova; Plastic Murs, which houses contemporary art; the charming Ubik Café, which also doubles as bookshop and gallery; and live music venues such as Café Mercedes Jazz.
THE HISTORY
Russafa is named after the country retreat established here by Prince Abd Allah al-Balansi in the ninth century, and beautifully evoked by 13th-century poet Ibn al-Abbar. Following the city’s conquest by Crusaders in 1238, farms replaced his ornamental garden, but the name stuck. Russafa became officially one of the city’s neighbourhoods after being annexed in 1877. Until relatively recently, it was rarely visited by outsiders due to a reputation for petty crime, but that all changed over a decade ago and today it owes its vibrant atmosphere to a combination of culture, art and lively restaurant scene.
WHERE TO EAT AND DRINK The esmorzaret is one of the city’s quintessential food traditions, which involves taking a bocadillo (sandwich) break between 9 and 11am, with nuts and olives on the side – expect hearty fillings from blood sausage to omelettes. One of the best places to try it is La Cantina de Ruzafa on Carrer del Literat Azorin. This is also paella territory, and you’ll find a superb selection of rice dishes, including
arròs a banda with fresh seafood, or Valencian paella at Goya Gallery goyagalleryrestaurant. com with rice from nearby La Albufera. For fine dining, try
La Salita anarkiagroup.com led by Michelin-starred chef Begoña Rodrigo, whose tasting menus make the most of local ingredients (her smoked eel with apple and almond is outstanding). Another ode to all things local and seasonal is 2 Estaciones restaurante2estaciones. com
– don’t miss their Valencian oysters with tomato juice and sherry. Wine lovers can browse an extensive list with the help of knowledgeable staff at
La Cepa Vieja lacepavieja.es while horchata, a regional tiger-nut milk speciality, is the non-alcoholic must-try drink.