GuADALOUPE ISLaNDS
From the dizzying heights of a volcano to a limestone plateau, with hiking trails in between, here's a place to get active – and then there's the authentic dining scene in outlying islands to discover
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There’s a definite Francophile flair to Guadeloupe, a 12-strong island group in the Eastern Caribbean’s Lesser Antilles. Wedged between Antigua to the north and Dominica to the south, this French Overseas Territory is centred on the twin isles of Grande-Terre and Basse-Terre. Separated by the seawater channel of Rivière Salée, the two are connected by low-lying mangrove swamps crossed by a pair of bridges. Their similarities are slim, however: lower-lying GrandeTerre to the east is known for its surfing scene and laid-back beach towns, while jungle-wreathed Basse-Terre lays claim to the Parc National de la Guadeloupe. Topping this chunk of high ground are the dizzying heights of La Soufrière volcano, which is wrapped in rainforest, waterfalls and a good few hiking trails. Key among these is the trek to the top, all the way to the lunar-like summit through tropical ferns and shrubs to reach the steaming, sulphurous crater itself.
Back at sea level, Basse-Terre does have one of Guadeloupe’s best beaches at Grande Anse, whose 1km sweep of sand is the longest in the archipelago. It also benefits from being close to Deshaies, a sleepy fishing village with a cosmopolitan collection of bars and restaurants. For more active beach days, Plage de Malendure round on the west coast offers kayaking, diving and other water sports. The reason for its popularity lies just offshore at Îlets Pigeon, where the Réserve Cousteau protects coral reefs, sponge-covered wrecks and abundant marine life.
Over on Grande-Terre, the limestone plateau landscape may be less remarkable, but this is where you’ll find Pointe-à-Pitre, the New Orleans of the Caribbean. Its colonial architecture and spice markets invite idle exploring, as does the colourful market in Sainte-Anne further down the coast. Grand-Terre lays claim to the islands’ most sophisticated dining scene, but things feel more authentic in the outlying islands. On La Désirade, Marie-Galante and nine islands of Les Saintes (of which two – Terre-de-Haut and Terre-de-Bas – are inhabited), you’ll find fresh seafood or organic farms where ox-drawn carts still ply the plantations. Les Saintes are known for another Grande Anse (on Terre-de-Bas: it’s one of the Caribbean’s loveliest coves) and Tourment d’Amour, a coconut custard confection that’s a Guadeloupe speciality. Don’t leave the beach without cooling off with a coconut sorbet flavoured with cinnamon, nutmeg, vanilla and other island spices. Elsewhere, seek out island-produced rum and Arabica coffee – Guadeloupe is said to be the oldest coffee-growing region in the Americas; and everywhere, listen out for the rhythmic beat of Zouk, the definitive sound of the French Caribbean. guadeloupe-islands.com
Clockwise from top left: local flavours; service in Davenport; Saint-Louis, north of Marie Galante; Grand-Terre; local 'foraging'; Terre-de-Haut; freshest seafood; Basse-Terre waterfall; market stall in Marché de Sainte-Anne