Food and Travel (UK)

GOURMET Boltholes

DEVON These old country establishm­ents in and CHESHIRE have joined a 21st-century approach to guest comfort with a bias towards modern European food influences. The result: ultimate relaxation

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GLEBE HOUSE

The rolling hills of East Devon’s Cole Valley, overlappin­g as if they’re fighting to get into the panoramic landscape views from Glebe House, could almost be in Tuscany. Fitting, given this sixbedroom restaurant with rooms – or rooms with restaurant, given the building dates back to the 1800s – is inspired by Italian agriturism­o. The farm-to-table ethos is strong within this 15-acre property with the Jurassic Coast on its doorstep, and all the fresh fish the Devon shoreline brings with it, not to mention organic farms nearby, and its own polytunnel­s for the most extensive of kitchen gardens. The owners, chef Hugo Guest and his artist wife Olive, took over the Georgian property from Hugo’s parents who ran it as a b&b when he was growing up, and decided to bring a slice of the Italy they loved so much. Together with ex-River Cottage baker Sam Lomas, they now pickle, bake and make butter and yoghurt on site, and offer courses that vary from bread and pasta making to mackerel fishing, with twilight beach dinners, vineyard tours and still-life flower drawing. Rooms reveal Olive’s flair, with big splashes of colour coupled with carefully chosen fittings and furniture – from the Rose Room, with canopy bed, freestandi­ng bath and period fireplace, to the yellow-ceilinged Morning Room. Food-wise, there’s full-on authentic Italian in the main restaurant plus a guest-only Kitchen Supper menu with cassoulets, homemade pies and ragùs. An outdoor heated pool and tennis courts complete the picture. AM. Doubles from £129. 01404 871276, glebehouse­devon.co.uk

Clockwise from top left: Glebe House; its Rose Room; food is inspired by agriturism­o; the homely sitting room; The Roebuck Inn’s quirky Picpoul room; expect roll-top baths; for breakfast, it’s homemade granola or farm-fresh eggs

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