Food and Travel (UK)

SHIP to SHORE

Oceania Cruisesʼ resident gourmet traveller, Bernie Carter (SVP and MD, EMEA) shares his top picks for where to eat in the Argentinia­n capital

- OCEANIAʼS GUIDE TO BUENOS AIRES

If I were to define Buenos Aires in one word, it would be ‘flamboyant’. Argentina’s largest city boasts a vibrant culinary scene, a colourful medley of architectu­re, a mesmerisin­g coastline and tree-lined avenues alive with tango music. It’s definitely up there with the cultural capitals of South America, and with 24 Oceania Cruises voyages docking here, I can’t wait to revisit.

At the very heart of Argentinia­n gastronomy sits asado, meat grilled over open fire. Carnivores will feel right at home at traditiona­l steak house Don Julio, in the chic Palermo district. Thanks to the hearty, flavourful cuts on the menu, a friendly ambience, impressive malbecs and an open kitchen, locals and visitors seeking a proper experience rather than a quick meal have crowned it the top asado spot in town. Ask for the grill chef’s recommenda­tions to taste the best of what’s on offer.

Prefer to dine alfresco? Head to the monthly, pop-up Buenos Aires Market for beef empanadas with chimichurr­i and lomitos (steak sandwiches) as well as regional produce like provoleta and reggianito cheeses and fresh fruit and veg.

For dessert, pop into any local restaurant for arroz con leche, a well-loved dish of rice cooked slowly with milk, cinnamon and vanilla. Or meander over to the theatre district, where century-old La Pasta Frola serves up the flakiest of quince-filled, sugar-dusted pastelitos, apple alfajores (honey and nut-based biscuits) and cakes oozing with dulce de leche. Stay for a coffee or take it away to stroll Avenida 9 de Julio – the widest avenue in the world – towards the Obelisk, a national history monument soaring over 67m high.

On the way back to port, take the opportunit­y to catch a world-class tango performanc­e at the Astor Piazzolla Theatre and a tour of the pink-hued presidenti­al palace, Casa Rosada

– its eponymous museum in the former colonial fort offers a fascinatin­g insight into Argentina’s past. oceaniacru­ises.com

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