WHERE TO EAT AND DRINK
Prices are for a three-course meal for two, excl. drinks, unless stated Ćatovića Mlini A former mill turned into a world-class tavern thanks to the vision of Lazar Ćatović, who has managed this family-run, pleasantly old-fashioned establishment for over 25 years. Start with a traditional crni rižoto (black risotto) with prawns, squid and monkfish, continue with crispy deep-fried octopus accompanied by a bottle of ruby-coloured vranac and round off with the local almond and caramel cake, bokeški kolač. From £86. E65, Morinj, 00 382 32 373030, catovica-mlini.com
Ciao Bella With its pink interiors, this dainty gelato and prosecco bar is as Instagrammable as it gets. Sip a limoncello-prosecco cocktail at a table right on the promenade of Marina Village. Ice creams from £1.70; drinks from £8. Marina Village Luštica Bay, Radovići, 00 382 67 999916
Conte For beautifully presented fish dishes, this restaurant on the seashore in Perast has few competitors. Start with the Conte Premium platter (prawn tartare, scampi carpaccio, fish carpaccio and octopus salad) and continue with the house speciality – prawn-stuffed gnocchi with shrimp sauce. Book a table on the waterside terrace for views of the two islets of Our Lady of the Rocks and St George. From £72. Obala Kapetana Marka Martinovića BB, Perast, 00 382 67 257387, hotelconte.me
Moric Farm In the rural setting of his family-owned certified organic olive farm, Ilija Moric will give you a friendly yet informative insight on Montenegro’s prized oil. The guided degustation is followed by a sumptuous snack with local delicacies under the stone vaults of the tavern, where the 300-year-old mill still makes a fine show. Try his cheese in olive oil and a slice of fragrant lenja pita. Electric bikes are available for rent to explore the Luštica Peninsula at leisure, at £26 per day. Book in advance. Tour with tasting £15pp. Tići, Luštica, 00 382 67 603535 Murano Wine and dine in style at Regent Porto Montenegro’s finedining restaurant. The decor is an ode to the glass-making tradition of the Venetian island it is named after, from the mosaic art of Svetlana Ostapovici to the sleek glass chandeliers and the precious handmade Murano tumblers at your table. The menu offers a sophisticated take on Adriatic cuisine, focusing on fresh seafood and rigorously locally-sourced ingredients, reflecting the philosophy of executive chef Marko Živković. The Regent’s Gourmet Corner, also located on the hotel’s ground floor, is perfect for a more informal experience, with a scrumptious selection of patisseries. From £90. Obala BB, Porto Montenegro Village, Tivat, 00 382 32 660660, regenthotels.com/porto-montenegro
Panorama Restaurant On the top floor of the Ramada Podgorica, this restaurant offers sweeping views of the capital. Its excellent team of chefs, led by the talented Nikola Čelić, delivers a good balance of traditional and international dishes with Mediterranean flavours and tastes. To sample the local cuisine, try the smoked carp, a delicacy of nearby Lake Skadar, and continue with the traditional Podgorica popeci, a pork fillet with a cheese and prosciutto filling. From £44. 74 Bulevar Save Kovačevića, 00 382 20 622623, ramadapodgorica.me
Radevic Estate A boutique winery located in the historic village of Rogami, a 10-minute drive from Podgorica. Since their first harvest in 2009, Goran Radevic and his American wife Renee have developed award-winning syrah, cabernet sauvignon and a very distinctive rosé. Goran is the perfect host, taking you on a journey through the world of wine. The hour-long tour includes a tasting of three award-winning wines, a grappa and an array of small bites. By appointment only. Tours from £21pp. Rogami-Piperi BB, Podgorica, 00 382 69 276055, radevicestate.com
Sabia Restaurant Enjoy a stunning view of the Boka Bay coastline at this Riviera-style restaurant of the brand new One&Only hotel in Portonovi. Located bang on the beach, it combines locally-sourced ingredients with delicious Italian flavours thanks to chef Marco Lucentini and his Umbrian heritage of simple, earthy cuisine – think gnocchi al ragù or cappellacci ravioli stuffed with ricotta and spinach. Given its location, seafood has a starring role too, with a dedicated raw bar menu. From £70. Portonovi, Kumbor, 00382 31 691011, oneandonlyportonovi.com
The Spot This stylish yet relaxed, all-day option at The Chedi Luštica Bay is a great address for just about anything from a healthy breakfast to afterdinner drinks, offering an alternative to the hotel’s main dining room,
The Restaurant. Executive chef Željko Knezović, who trained at Noma in Copenhagen, delivers sophisticated Mediterranean dishes on the waterfront, with the emphasis on Adriatic seafood, although meat lovers won’t be disappointed with the likes of slow-cooked melt-in-the-mouth veal cheek with beetroot and broad bean purée – a recipe from his childhood, appropriately called ‘From My Mother’. Cocktails are served well into the night with a menu built around foraged herbs and blended by master mixologist Marko Dragić – try his award-winning Chedi Brew. From £86. Marina Village Luštica Bay, Radovići, 00 382 32 661266, chedilusticabay.com Stari Mlini A former mill turned restaurant in an idyllic setting, right on the waterfront at the mouth of the Ljuta river. Dara Djurica has been at the forefront of this family-run address since its opening in 1976. Everything they serve is based on family recipes and either grown in their garden or sourced from neighbours. Oysters, mussels and clams make for the perfect starter, followed by their house special, the ‘Fisherman Stew’ (chunks of white fish and potatoes). A slice of dobrotska torta, their almond and maraschino cake still made according to the 100-year-old recipe, is also a must. A walk in the garden, among luxuriant vegetation and fish ponds, is a delight, especially at sunset. From £86. Ljuta BB, Dobrota, 00 382 32 333555, starimlini.com Winery Garnet A small wine producer in the heritage site of Godinje, in the heart of the Montenegrin wine region and within Lake Skadar National Park. Miško Leković’s family have lived here for centuries. Sit under the pergola and let him guide you through his wines, accompanied by a platter of homemade bread, prosciutto and cheese and rounded off by a selection of his liqueurs (the cherry one is particularly delicious). Miško also offers walking tours of the region. Advance booking required. Wine tasting from £13pp. Godinje, Virpazar, 00 382 67 355535, winerygarnet.com