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OCEANIAʼS GUIDE TO MARSEILLE

Oceania Cruisesʼ resident gourmet traveller, Bernie Carter (SVP and MD, EMEA) shares his top picks for where to eat in the south of France

In France’s second-largest city, history is ever-present. Vibrant neighbourhoods founded by the Greeks are framed by rocky hills, dotted with Romanesque-Byzantine architecture and modern street art – and at the foot of it all sits the Vieux Port, Marseille’s beating heart. It’s here, between the yachts, fishing boats and bustling quayside cafés, that you’ll find some of the best fare in the Côte d’Azur. Thankfully, 77 Oceania Cruises voyages dock here, giving ample opportunity to taste it all.

Disembarking in the morning, I always make a beeline for the seafood market. Locals flock to the Vieux Port to browse the ingredients – bream, monkfish, red mullet – that will later take centre stage in bouillabaisse. Relaxed eatery La Table du Fort is my go-to for this famed fish stew – their food offering is incredibly creative, featuring cheese courses and local wines, and a seasonal ‘surprise menu’ for more adventurous guests.

But Marseille’s culinary stars also include olive, caper and anchovy tapenade (you’re guaranteed to find it as a starter in any restaurant) and ratatouille, an oven-baked stew of summer vegetables, drizzled with olive oil and sprinkled with herbs.

The latter fits right into the quintessentially French menu of

Chez Nous, tucked away in to the east of the city. Here, expect homestyle, Provençal cuisine spanning honey, garlic and thyme lamb shank confit and traditional offal dishes like pieds et paquets.

A trip to this corner of the country wouldn’t be complete without visiting the Calanques – a 20km stretch of limestone cliffs towering above shimmering coves – a feast with a view to follow. My favourite spot is Grand Bar des Goudes – their linguine with fresh scallops and the rockfish soup (served with croutons, rouille and grated cheese) are simply fantastic. En route back to port, stop by golden beaches, stroll the majestic Palais Longchamp and grab a souvenir bottle of rosé. oceaniacruises.com