WHERE TO STAY
Hotel Margarita A restored, early 19th-century family home reached by a stepped pathway leading down from a labyrinth of cobbled lanes close to Chora’s castle. Two terraces overlook the Aegean Sea and surrounding countryside and each room has its own character. Doubles from £51. Chora, 00 30 2736 031711, hotel-margarita.com
Hidden Retreats These stone villas built into the hillside to blend in with the local landscape, have a sophisticated design using local materials, giving seclusion and comfort to each retreat. Yoga and massage treatments are available and, on occasion, musical evenings and theatrical performances. Breakfasts feature the best local foods and products – honey, paximadia, yoghurt, fruit and eggs from free-ranging chickens. Doubles from £184
(3-night min), including breakfast. Agios Propokopios, 00 30 2736 034270, hiddenretreats.gr
Petrokalli Studios Self-catering apartments that come with their own terrace or balcony. There’s opportunity to learn how to cook some traditional dishes and, at appropriate times, pick olives, see wheat being harvested or gather herbs. Filio taverna (see Where to eat) is nearby. Doubles from £60. Kalamos, 00 30 6941 447648, petrokalli.gr
Sunvil hotels and apartments The company has a number of attractive small hotels, pensions and selfcatering accommodation in beautiful locations, including Avlemonas, Kapsali, Chora and Agia Pelagia. Amenities vary; some have a pool or are close to a beach, or they may be self-catering apartments or houses. Neromylos apartments in Agia
Pelagia, for instance, are traditionally designed in keeping with the old stone watermill close by, and located along a quiet lane within five minutes of the beach. 7 nights from £832pp including flights.
020 8568 4499, sunvil.co.uk