ISLAND HERITAGE

As two of the North Aegean’s must-visit islands, Lesvos and Chios make an unforgettable twocentre trip, sharing a love of culture, traditional gastronomy and a playground of clear waters

History shrouded in myth, wild landscapes, age-old cultural heritage and unmatched gastronomic traditions – there’s nowhere quite as enchanting as the North Aegean. Island hopping is the best way to experience more of it, and we’ve got a trip to remember lined up, with a duo of must-visits.

As the ferry pulls into Lesvos – the third-largest Greek island

– a blanket of silvery-green olive groves greets you, shimmering in the sunlight. Step ashore and you’ll be transported to another time. From a 20-million-year-old petrified forest (the memory of a volcanic eruption) and the museums of Mytilene to local production of world-renowned PDO Feta cheese, Lesvos is an island committed to preservation. The Castle of Mytilene stands proud on the site of an ancient acropolis, thermal springs pepper the island – a gift from god of fire Hephaestus – and the sea invites exploration below the surface, with ancient pottery and shipwrecks awaiting discovery.

Neighbouring Chios is the island where black-sand beaches meet crystal-clear waters, and Byzantine mosaics adorn the Unesco-listed Nea Moni monastery. Here, you can browse local produce at the Aplotaria market, enjoy a cup of Greek coffee at Vounaki Square, wander through orange orchards in Kampos or pay a visit to the medieval castle that dominates the skyline in the port.

Both islands are a culture lover’s heaven – while Lesvos is the homeland of great poets like Sappho and Alcaeus, Chios is said to be the birthplace of Homer. They’re connected by a rich history and traditions that extend to their menus, from ultra-sweet oranges to mastic brandies and PDO cheeses, produced with time-honoured methods. To find out more, head to visitgreece.gr

LESVOS, LAND OF THE OLIVE

The olive tree is the symbol of Lesvos and golden, delicate extra virgin olive oil is a given due to plentiful dry-soiled, mountainous groves – there are 11 million olive trees on the island, and each drop is exceptional. Work up an appetite at the Museum of Industrial Olive Oil Production – housed in an old communal olive press – before settling down at a local taverna to enjoy olive oil drizzled over giaprakia (vine leaves stuffed with rice). Second only to its olive oil is Lesvos’ cheese, thanks to the goats and sheep that feast on rich pastures. Their high-quality milk is transformed into PDO Feta, Ladotyri, Kasseri and Graviera, using traditional production methods passed down for generations. The fruits of the Aegean Sea make a regular appearance on menus too, with the likes of salt-cured sardines and anchovies, roasted scallops and grilled octopus –try pairing seafood with a glass of aniseed-flavoured ouzo, served over iced water, a spirit that dates back some 200 years. For dessert, local women’s cooperatives offer irresistible almond and rosewater baklava, walnut and cinnamon plantzeta pastries and yoghurt drizzled with chestnut, heather or myrtle honey.

INTO THE RICH NATURE OF CHIOS

Delve into the intricate process behind the cultivation of mastic, an aromatic resin indigenous to the south of the island. Also known as the ‘tears of Chios’, mastic has been at the heart of island tradition since the 7th century, today holding protected status and harvested by hand through the labour-intensive kendos technique. Wander through the narrow streets of 24 ‘mastic villages’ to sample jams and brandies, and be sure to stop in Pyrgi, where The Chios Mastic Museum offers a deeper dive into its history. As well as a landscape dotted with the green of mastic trees, citrus orchards contribute a patchwork of vibrant yellows and oranges. Don’t miss the freshlysqueezed juice of PDO Chios mandarins – renowned for their tender flesh – and the intense sweetness of fragrant lemon blossom ‘spoon sweets’. Equally divine-tasting is Ariousios Oinos wine – ancient legend has it that Oenopion, the son of god Dionysus and mythical king of Chios, introduced the art of winemaking to the island. Sip the rich red paired with soft white cheese such as smooth Mastelo, best enjoyed as a grilled accompaniment to salads, sandwiches or classic Greek meze.