Food and Travel (UK)

WHERE TO EAT

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Prices are per person for a three-course meal, excluding drinks, unless otherwise stated

Cantine del Gavi Located in a beautiful 18th-century palace in the heart of Gavi, this is one of the region’s most chic addresses. Surrounded by roses, hydrangeas and aromatic herbs, its secret garden is the perfect spot for eating alfresco – although frescoed rooms are an excellent alternativ­e in case of cooler weather. Their tasting menu is a gourmet journey across the area’s flavours – the zucchini carpaccio with anchovies and hazelnuts is an impeccable dish that brilliantl­y sums up the encounter between Piedmont and Liguria. Their signature dish, risotto al Gavi with 50-month Parmigiano Reggiano, is another must-try. Make sure to pay a visit to their impressive wine cellar, carved in the thick walls of the building, which boasts more than 1,000 labels, with special attention to the greatest Piedmontes­e wines. Tasting menu from £51, excluding wine. Via Goffredo Mameli 69, Gavi, 00 39 0143 642458, ristorante­cantinedel­gavi.it

Il Moro On the main square of lovely Capriata d’Orba, this former inn transforme­d into a restaurant has been run by husband-and-wife team Claudio Rebora and Simona Botteri since 1999. Pasta is rigorously handmade by Simona with her grandmothe­r’s tools – from agnolotti to corzetti novesi. Their hazelnut semifreddo with a dark chocolate sauce from Novi is worth every single calorie. They also have three rooms available, one of them equipped with a kitchenett­e, if you decide to overnight there (doubles from £85). From £34. Piazza Garibaldi 6, Capriata d’Orba, 00 39 0143 461 57, ristorante­ilmoro.it

La Gallina Villa Sparina’s fine dining restaurant is housed in an old hay barn surrounded by vineyards and thick woodlands. The kitchen is led by talented chef Graziano Caccioppol­i, who arrived here last spring with a Michelin star under his belt. You’d be wise to let him decide everything for you via the ‘Ci penso io’ (‘Leave it to me’) seven-course menu, although the à la carte menu has plenty to choose from, including his gourmet version of gnocchi al pesto. Wash it down with the award-winning wines from Villa Sparina estate. From £50. Tasting menus from £63, excluding wine. Frazione Monteroton­do 56, Gavi, 00 39 0143 685132, villaspari­naresort.it

Osteria Piemontema­re This is the place to try the famous ravioli di Gavi, as well as other rare finds such as colli di gallina ripieni (stuffed hen neck), a dish in which the less desirable parts of a chicken are skilfully transforme­d into a real delicacy, or the buridda, a Ligurian cuttlefish stew. From £30. Vico Rose 2R, Gavi, 00 39 0143 642411, osteria.ghiovini.it Trattoria Pessenti da Renato At this informal trattoria run by Gianni Ghiara, wife Milena and their two children, the accent is on traditiona­l fare. Start with fagottini (fried dough) with a cheese filling – typical for Liguria – served with a selection of cold cuts, and continue with a typically Piedmontes­e swirl of tajarin pasta in a wild boar sauce. On hot summer days, ask for the table under the leafy pergola. From £21. Località Pessenti 119, Frazione Rovereto, 00 39 0143 682147

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