A saganaki

is a small, twohandled, heavy-bottomed frying pan that gives its name to a variety of Greek meze dishes. A mussel dish of that size would require the plump bivalves to be removed from their shells for cooking. However, you can keep them on for this larger version and let your guests do the work instead. Serve with chilled white wine and crusty bread for mopping up, close your eyes and imagine you’re dining by the bright turquoise Mediterranean sea.