National Geographic Traveller (UK) - Food

Meet the whole eggs benedict family

- JV

Created during America’s Gilded Age, eggs benedict marks the beginning of a new love affair with breakfasts. The US economy was booming and the rich, enjoying their new lives in urban sprawls like New York City and Chicago, had discovered the art of weekend brunching. The boiled egg was reserved for weekdays, so something a little more luxurious — say, a stack of delicately poached eggs, thick Canadian bacon and decadent French sauce — was required. What followed was a breakfast revolution. From New Orleans to Paris, eggs benedict spawned countless variants, making an indelible mark on the world’s breakfast menus.

Eggs benedict

Two iconic New York establishm­ents lay claim to the original eggs benedict. The first is Delmonico’s, whose chef published a recipe for Eggs à la Benedick in 1894. The second is the Waldorf Hotel (now the Waldorf Astoria New York), where the dish is said to have been whipped up when a hungover regular ordered ‘some buttered toast, crisp bacon, two poached eggs and a pitcher of hollandais­e sauce’ that same year. Whatever the truth, these early blueprints have much in common with the modern version of the dish, which comprises two halves of a toasted English muffin, each topped with Canadian bacon and a soft poached egg. But the real magic is in the hollandais­e sauce, that classic French emulsion of egg yolks, melted butter and lemon. WHERE TO START: New York City, of course. Most brunch spots feature the dish on their menus, but for a recipe that’s gone unchanged since the late 19th century, book a table at Delmonico’s. delmonicos.com

Eggs florentine

‘À la florentine’ is a French culinary term that refers to dishes prepared or served with spinach and, often, mornay (a cheesy bechamel sauce). Meaning ‘in the style of Florence’, the term’s origins are blurry, with one theory claiming the combinatio­n was brought to Paris in the mid-15th century by Florence-born Catherine de’ Medici, the queen consort of France.

Staying true to its name, eggs florentine swaps Canadian bacon for a bed of creamy spinach slowly simmered in butter. Traditiona­lly, the egg stack is topped with a gruyère mornay, although many restaurant­s use hollandais­e sauce instead.

WHERE TO START: Benedict, a restaurant in the heart of Paris, offers eight varieties of eggs benedict,including an exquisite eggs florentine served with black truffle. benedict-paris.com

Eggs royale

This popular option is simply eggs benedict with the Canadian bacon replaced by lashings of smoked salmon. The fish pairs beautifull­y with velvety smooth, mildly citrusy hollandais­e sauce and a sprinkling of fresh chives. A lighter option than a classic benedict, it’s popular in city brunch spots across the world, particular­ly in the UK, Canada and New Zealand.

WHERE TO START: For a premium royale served with champagne, try Jean-georges at London’s The Connaught. The Modern Pantry in Farringdon, meanwhile, serves its eggs royale with a hazelnut and macadamia dukkah. the-connaught.co.uk themodernp­antry.co.uk

Eggs sardou

Dating back to the turn of the 20th century, eggs sardou is the creation of Antoine’s — the oldest restaurant in New Orleans — and is named after Victorien Sardou, a 19th-century French playwright who was staying in the city at the time. The star brunch plate features the classic combinatio­n of a muffin, poached egg and hollandais­e sauce alongside buttered spinach, slow-cooked artichoke and anchovies.

WHERE TO START: Antoine’s, in New Orleans’ French Quarter, still serves its original eggs sardou, while neighbouri­ng institutio­n Brennan’s offers a version with tomato béarnaise. antoines.com brennansne­worleans.com

Eggs neptune

This version takes the essential benedict ingredient­s but swaps the bacon for a mountain of fresh crab meat. It’s most popular in coastal regions like New England, the Gulf Coast and Northern California, the waters of which are home to some of the world’s best crab, including the blue, king, snow and stone species. WHERE TO START: Try Havana’s on Carolina Beach, North Carolina, for a delicious blue crab eggs benedict (an eggs neptune in all but name). It also offers a version with oysters. havanasres­taurant.com

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