National Geographic Traveller (UK) - Food

Order from the Deep South menu

- JZ

The cuisine of the Deep South is one of comfort, tradition and, above all, abundance of flavour. It incorporat­es produce that’s prolific in the region and therefore ingrained in its culinary history, such as sweetcorn, ham and lard (the South has an abundance of pig farms, and nose-to-tail cooking was standard practice long before it became fashionabl­e). You’ll find influences ranging from West African to Native American, French and beyond. Dishes are hearty and homely, with breakfast featuring a host of savoury and sweet foods, including meat, eggs, quick breads such as biscuits, and all manner of gravies and jams. Here’s what to order.

Shrimp & grits

THE DISH: In parts of the South situated on the water — such as Savannah, Georgia, and Charleston, South Carolina — you’ll find shrimp on every menu, often served atop a creamy bowl of grits (a slow-cooked porridge of cornmeal, water and milk). The best restaurant­s cook the shrimp until they’re just done enough to snap when bitten into, while the grits should be creamy and light as air. WHERE TO START: Open since 1976, Poogan’s Porch in Charleston is a traditiona­l Southern restaurant within a porch-lined Victorian townhouse. The shrimp and grits here feature andouille sausage, tasso ham gravy, onions and peppers. pooganspor­ch.com

Country ham & red-eye gravy

THE DISH: Salty, smoked and cured, country ham pops up in a variety of guises, whether it’s flavouring a side of stewed greens or it’s the star of the show, served as a thick, steak-like slab cooked on a griddle. For breakfast, order it with dark and smoky red-eye gravy, made by combining the drippings from the meat with coffee, ideally in a cast-iron pan, the intense heat of which coaxes out even more of its flavour.

WHERE TO START: Nashville’s The Loveless Cafe has been going strong since 1951, and its country ham with red-eye gravy and eggs is a signature dish. Order a biscuit to go with it; they’re so good, they’ve earned a place on the restaurant’s neon sign. lovelessca­fe.com

Buttermilk pancakes

THE DISH: Whether you order them with a sticky and sweet pecan topping or just a simple pat of butter, pancakes are a Southern staple. Buttermilk — which crops up in a whole host of regional specialiti­es, such as biscuits and fried chicken — is the not-so-secret ingredient that makes these pancakes extra fluffy.

WHERE TO START: Bread & Butterfly is a neighbourh­ood spot in Atlanta serving French- and Southern-inspired dishes. The buttermilk pancake (served as one large single pancake) is fluffy, buttery and served with hot maple syrup. bread-and-butterfly.com

Biscuits & gravy

THE DISH: Biscuits really sing of the South, especially when eaten with gravy. Of course, these aren’t your standard digestives — they’re more akin to scones, but flakier, more buttery and unsweetene­d. The gravy, meanwhile, is a creamy white concoction studded with chunks of pork sausage that add a wonderful savoury note to the whole dish.

WHERE TO START: At Home Grown in Atlanta, the biscuits and gravy dish called ‘The Big Comfy’ is so popular there’s a digital counter keeping track of its sales. The large cathead biscuits (so called because they’re the size of a cat’s head) are coated in gravy and topped with curled pieces of fried chicken breast and a couple of slices of orange for good measure. homegrowng­a.com

Beignets

THE DISH: Sometimes breakfast only needs to be a cup of coffee and a quick, sweet bite, and there’s no better sweet bite than the beignet. This puffed up, sugar-dusted treat, a distant cousin of the doughnut, was brought to America by French settlers, and is now a quintessen­tial speciality of New Orleans.

WHERE TO START: Open 24 hours, Cafe du Monde is a New Orleans landmark with the queue to prove it.

The perfectly golden beignets are fried to order and well worth waiting for; wash them down with a cup of cafe au lait. cafedumond­e.com

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