In conversation with Yoshidome Masanobu

Yoshidome Masanobu isn’t from Koyasan. Nor is he a monk. He lives and works, however, in this high mountain temple complex, the home of Japanese esoteric Buddhism. Yoshidome is the head chef at Ekoin, a temple that welcomes travellers to stay and experience life alongside the adherents who live and study here.

The dietary requirements of monks are somewhat different from those of the general populace. Accordingly, an alternative culinary tradition flourishes in places like Koyasan. Since the early 9th century, Shojin ryori (devotion food) has evolved so that noble guests can be served what was originally a Monk’s humble meal. Not only are meat and fish prohibited, but so are any foods with strong flavours, like onion, garlic and ginger, that might excite the senses and disturb a life of contemplation.

“I adore the tradition of Japanese food,” says Yoshidome-san; “There are so many flavours, and there is such a strong focus on seasonal ingredients.”

“In shojin ryori, we can’t use fish stock widely used in Japanese cooking,” he explains. “I had to learn to cook differently here.”

Yoshidome-san prepares exquisite meals like miso aubergine, lotus root and green pepper tempura with green tea salt, that are then served to guests by monks like the one pictured (right). His passion for food shines through in every dish.