Japanese cuisine

“Washoku has four elements,” says Murata Yoshihiro, holding up one hand and counting down on his fingers. The chef of Kyoto’s three-michelinstar restaurant, Kikunoi, has a kitchen to oversee and guests to serve, but this question of washoku (traditional Japanese cuisine) is close to his heart.

“First, the features of the four seasons must be present,” he proclaims. “Second, the original taste of the ingredients should be fully reflected. Nutrition is third; the food must be wellbalanced. Finally, the food should have close contact with Japanese citizens and their daily lives; it shouldn’t be above the people.”

In the Heian period (794 to 1185) the Imperial family lived in Kyoto, and the food brought to them from the surrounding regions: hamo from Awaji Island in Hyogo; abalone from Ise-shima in Mie prefecture; and saba from Wakasa in Fukui prefecture all contributed to a highly-developed cuisine that Kyoto still has today. Murata Yoshihiro exemplifies this, using sophisticated techniques and the finest local produce to create delicate, complicated dishes.

“Of course,” he smiles, “the best ingredients come from Kansai.”