Pasta con le sarde

The keys to this dish are the ’strattu, Sicily’s sun-dried tomato paste, available in specialist shops (otherwise a good tomato purée is fine); and wild fennel, which grows abundantly on the island. Some people leave out the saffron, but I like the rich complexity of flavour it adds.

SERVES: 4 TAKES: 30 MINS

INGREDIENTS

3 salted anchovies or

6 anchovy fillets in oil 100g breadcrumbs chopped garlic, anchovy

or rosemary (optional) 120ml extra virgin olive oil 1 medium onion, chopped 50ml white wine

2 tbsp ’strattu or 1½ tbsp

tomato purée

8 fresh sardine fillets

30g sultanas

30g pine nuts, lightly

toasted in the oven a good pinch of saffron

(around 20 threads) 3 sprigs wild fennel, finely chopped, or 1 tsp fennel seeds 200g dry, eggless pasta,

such as bucatini

METHOD

If using salted anchovies, rinse and dry them.

Run your thumb gently along the backbone of each anchovy to release it (you should be able to pull it out easily). If using anchovies in oil, drain them.

Toast the breadcrumbs in a dry pan set over a medium heat until they’re a dark golden-brown, taking care not to burn them (for extra flavour, heat 1 tbsp olive oil with a little chopped garlic, anchovy or rosemary, then add the breadcrumbs). Set aside.

Heat half of the oil in a pan, then add the onion. Sauté until softened but not coloured, then add the anchovy fillets, stirring them until they ‘melt’. Pour in the wine and simmer to let it evaporate, then add the ’strattu and bring it back to the boil, adding just enough water to give a sauce consistency. Add the sardine fillets, sultanas, pine nuts, saffron and fennel. Season to taste, stir gently and cook for 10 mins.

Cook the pasta for about 1 min less than packet instructions, so it’s al dente. Drain, reserving some cooking water. Toss the pasta with the sardine sauce, adding a little cooking water, if necessary, to loosen. Sprinkle with the toasted breadcrumbs and serve.

Taken from Made in Sicily (£30, 4th Estate)