National Geographic Traveller (UK) - Food

WHERE TO EAT

The best places to try Peking duck and its close cousin, crispy duck, in its homeland and here in the UK

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DA DONG, ACROSS CHINA

One of China’s top chefs, Dong Zhenxiang, spearheade­d a revival of Peking duck in the

2000s. He uses a roasting technique that makes the duck crispier and less fatty than the traditiona­l version. Aside from duck, Dong’s known for innovative fusion dishes such as zongzi (parcels of glutinous rice) wrapped in prosciutto rather than the traditiona­l giant bamboo leaves. The chain’s more than a dozen branches are lavishly designed, with hefty menus and prices to match. dadongdado­ng.com

SIJI MINFU, BEIJING

This 16-strong chain offers Peking duck and other dishes that echo the style of Da Dong, only at lower prices. Expect long queues, especially at the branch on Nanchizi Dajie, which backs directly onto the moat of the Forbidden

City and offers splendid views. A few ovens stand in the main dining room, so you can watch the chefs at work. After they’re done, the birds are then carved tableside and served with all the trimmings. 11 Nanchizi Dajie

SHENG YONG XING, BEIJING

At the Michelin-starred Chaoyang branch of this restaurant, you can see beautiful birds roasting in the huge ovens alongside the upstairs dining room. The crisp skin is presented canape-style on bitesized pieces of steamed bread, with a topping of caviar, before the meal proceeds in the traditiona­l manner, with pancakes and trimmings. Other dishes to try include the duck feet in a mustard sauce, as well as the Jiangnan classic, squirrel fish in sweet and sour sauce. 5 Xindong Road

SHIJIU, BEIJING

This restaurant offers classic northern Chinese dishes with a modern twist. After the whole Peking duck is carved at the table, the skin and meat are briefly smoked over jasmine flowers, giving them a wonderfull­y enticing aroma. Elsewhere on the menu, expect highlights such as hairtail fish with balsamic vinegar. You’ll find Shijiu in the east of the city, and like the food, the interior design combines classical and contempora­ry. 61 Dongsanhua­n Zhonglu

IMPERIAL TREASURE, LONDON

This luxurious restaurant, in a former bank building close to Trafalgar Square, is the London outpost of a high-end Singaporea­n chain. Aside from superb dim sum and Cantonese delicacies such as braised abalone and honey-glazed Iberico char siu pork, the kitchen produces one of London’s finest Peking ducks, served with handmade pancakes, which have a faintly puckered surface and a more interestin­g texture than the mass-produced versions. The duck must be ordered in advance. imperialtr­easure.com

MIN JIANG, LONDON

Atop Kensington’s Royal Garden Hotel, overlookin­g Hyde Park, Min Jiang (pictured) serves its Peking duck in two rounds. The first is the classic spread of crisp skin with a white sugar dip and meat wrapped in house-made pancakes with various garnishes. For the second course, guests choose from a menu that includes minced duck with a lettuce wrap, and duck-enhanced fried rice or noodles. The duck should be ordered in advance. minjiang.co.uk

FOUR SEASONS CHINESE RESTAURANT, LONDON

Because of the technical demands of making Peking duck, it’s costly and found at few UK restaurant­s. For a more accessible option, try Cantonese roast duck. Its skin lacks the crispness of Peking duck, but it’s delicious dressed in spiced gravy. Four Seasons, which has several branches (and shouldn’t be confused with the hotel chain), is a London roast duck legend. fs-restaurant­s.co.uk

YU ALDERLY EDGE, CHESHIRE

This smart establishm­ent is another great place to try aromatic crispy duck, served Peking-style, with all the trimmings, as well as — in this case — a hint of yuzu. The menu also features Cantonese favourites such as dim sum and sesame toast. yualderley­edge.co.uk

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