JUMILLA: RIPE FOR DISCOVERY

It might be one of Spain’s lesser-known wine regions, but travellers to the country’s southeastern corner will find a long heritage of robust reds and crisp rosés

Between the central Spanish plateau and the Mediterranean coast, there’s a hot, high and dry stretch of rocky valleys and extinct volcanoes. Far from a stark, fruitless expanse, this is a landscape where people have been cultivating vines for millennia. Local excavations of ancient hamlets, ruined forts, sacred caves and burial sites have also turned up fossilised grape seeds, and grape ‘earrings’ worn by Iberian settlers.

Today, oenophiles can explore a wine route across the region — known today as Jumilla — from low Manchegan farmlands to the rugged heights of Murcia. One of Spain’s oldest viticultural areas, and among the first awarded the appellation of denominación de origen protegida (DOP) in the 1960s, Jumilla has steadily grown into a low-yield, high-quality terroir that makes the best of its few natural advantages.

Organic production remains the standard in this arid landscape, which is largely free of plant diseases. Savvy winemakers often mix modern tools and methods with ancient dry-farming traditions, and there’s enough limestone in the soil to supply moisture. Planting bush vines on shady slopes, and at altitudes of up to 3,000ft, also provides some relief from daytime temperatures that exceed 40C in the summer.

But the real secret to Jumilla’s winegrowing success is the robustness of the Monastrell (or Mourvèdre) grape, which flourishes here. The results include earthy reds, aromatic whites and fruity, fresh rosés, as well as the dessert wines that are a signature of the region. Visitors can sample the varietals from the cellars at one of the region’s stylish bodegas, or pair them at restaurants with rustic local dishes such as rice with rabbit and snails or gazpacho. Enjoy them at a tavern in beautiful towns like Jumilla, the regional capital.

Don’t miss

Queso de Murcia al vino (Murcian wine cheese) is a soft, salty local delicacy; it’s made by washing goat’s milk in red wine during maturation, and often served fried