THE THREE CHIMNEYS

THIS SCOTTISH ISLAND BOLTHOLE SERVES WORLD-CLASS FOOD USING THE BEST LOCAL INGREDIENTS

It’s as though they’ve done it on purpose. Somewhere near the end of a winding lane sits the whitewashed hamlet of Colbost, right on the edge of a loch. With every twist and turn, you feel yourself getting hungrier and hungrier, willing The Three Chimneys to materialise like an oasis in the desert. And eventually, it does.

The Three Chimneys is not a well-kept secret. In fact, it might be the worst-kept secret in Scotland. The restaurant with rooms has popped up on ‘world’s best’ lists for decades and has held three AA Rosettes for over two of them. In 2019, hotelier Gordon Campbell Gray took over from the original owners, who first opened the doors in 1985. It’s come a long way since the Eighties, including the addition of the The House Over-by, a side building where six beautifully styled bedrooms, decked out in shades of pebble and stone, make for a peaceful place to rest weary heads — and full stomachs.

Dinner is served in the former crofter’s cottage, with its picket fence and exposed stone walls. There are oysters and homemade bread with soft, salted Skye butter, and salmon cured in seaweed, enlivened by an umami-rich dollop of crab ketchup. The scallop comes with horseradish and bog myrtle, which grows all over the island and whose sharp, sorrel-like flavour pairs perfectly with the sweet scallop.

Chef Scott Davis’s food is unmistakably Scottish at its core, but clever culinary touches make it feel new and exciting. Take the halibut, served with langoustines, braised tomato and beans, and venison chorizo. Mere surf ‘n’ turf this isn’t. The lamb, meanwhile, from nearby island Soay, is tender and soft, served with black garlic, beetroot and a tart bramble sauce with all the beauty of an autumn hedgerow.

The darkly seductive chocolate and raspberry dessert is a winner. There’s a layered cake, mousse and sorbet, with whispers of whisky and sprinkles of wafer-crisp feuilletine. If you looked carefully enough, I’m sure you’d find a hint of cranachan here — the Scottish pud of whisky, oats, berries and cream — but you may have gobbled the lot before you do.

This is, perhaps, everything a destination restaurant with rooms should be: excellent food, famous Highland hospitality and, most enticingly of all, tucked away like a precious heirloom, where the only distraction is the scenery. Dinner for two, with wine, around £165. Doubles from £275, B&B. The writer visited in September 2020. Connor Mcgovern