National Geographic Traveller (UK) - Food
FIVE WAYS Pineapple
SWEET AND JUICY, THIS FRUIT CAN BE USED IN CLASSIC COCKTAILS AND TACO TOPPINGS. WORDS: VITELIO REYES
Native to South America, the pineapple represents some of what the region is about: warmth it’s only grown in balmy weather) and sweetness, contained within a rough exterior. I think it’s a good metaphor for the people and culture.
While they’re delicious on their own, pineapples have countless culinary uses, from simple juices to indulgent desserts. At our Latin American restaurant Amazónico, pineapples are the star of the show. We slowly grill them in front of our guests, then glaze them with a delicate syrup made of the fruit’s own juice and brown sugar. The sweetness is offset by a coconut sorbet.
Pineapples aren’t limited to use in sweet dishes, however. They make an incredible glaze for a pork chop or chicken, for instance. At the restaurant, we also create things like pineapple chimichurri to go with oysters, and a pineapple crisp to sit on top of tuna laqueado, a dish of marinated akami tuna, tamarillo ponzu and cashew nuts.
When the fruit was introduced to Europe around the 17th century, it was considered very exotic, and only affordable to the upper echelons of society. Thankfully, that’s changed, and pineapples are now available in grocers and supermarkets from as little as a pound or two.
However, not all pineapples are created equal. In my opinion, the best in the world come from Costa Rica, as the weather, humidity and soil make them wonderfully sweet; once ripe, you might notice notes of passion fruit, melon, apricot and vanilla. Vitelio Reyes is executive chef at Amazónico, London. amazonicorestaurant.com