ON LOCATION Historic pubs, fine dining restaurants and artisan chocolatiers in the Cornish town of Fowey

This compact Cornish port town delivers fine-dining restaurants, old-school pubs and bean-to-bar chocolatiers

Tumbling down a hillside into a sparkling blue estuary cluttered with bobbing boats, Fowey is one of Cornwall’s most postcard-perfect towns. Despite its diminutive size, it’s also among the most exciting for food-lovers. You can hardly go a few paces without coming across another great place to eat and drink, from top-notch local seafood establishments to atmospheric pubs.

It was (fitzroycornwall.com) that put Fowey on the culinary map, back in summer

2019. Restaurateurs Jeremie Cometto and David Gingell — the duo behind cult north London spots including Jolene and Westerns Laundry

— were enticed by a converted former bank on a corner in the centre of Fowey. And with the opening of Fitzroy came a slew of savvy diners; even now, you’ll need to book well ahead for the chance to feast on smart plates starring fine Cornish produce, such as curried crab with cauliflower and runny egg, or meaty turbot with lobster sauce and spring onion — all washed down with natural wines.

Fitzroy isn’t the only newcomer to Fowey.

Just over a year old, tiny

(leopardandgoat.farm) is a bean-to-bar chocolate brand also turning out artisan hot chocolate. Choose from the likes of Tanzanian Kokoa Kamili Organic or Madagascan Sambirano Valley — as well as decadent, ganache-filled handmade doughnuts or sausage rolls flavoured with smoked cacao. Visit in the early evening and the owner will happily pour you a glass of pet nat sparkling wine or a margarita.

A few minutes’ walk away, (foweysweetshop.co.uk) sits right along the central Fore Street strip. Owner Darren Tatham gave the place a facelift in July 2019, after taking over from the couple who’d been running it for more than

Fitzroy Leopard + Goat Farm Fowey Sweet Shop

three decades. Despite the addition of stylish Kernow Chocolate bars, crafted an hour away in St Eval, one thing that hasn’t changed is the fudge, handmade in Looe. The toothsome sea salt caramel, enrobed with dark chocolate, might be the bestseller, but the cream tea flavour — shortbread, clotted cream fudge and a thick wedge of Turkish delight, all smothered in Belgian white chocolate — is well worth trying.

For more local treats, although of a more savoury kind, stop off at (kittowsfowey.co.uk), a farmer and butchers/deli that’s been going for almost 150 years. Here you can pick up ready-toeat Cornish crab or wild garlic campanelle pasta from Cornwall Pasta, locally made olive oil and sea salt, Cornish yarg cheese and hot pasties — as well as meat from the Kittows farm. In front of the deli, meanwhile, are wicker baskets overflowing with seasonal veg.

On warm days, the pubs lining Fowey’s quay — fringed with sun-drenched terraces — are a go-to for a sundowner. But with autumn’s chill, there’s no better place for a pint than (shipfowey.co.uk) on Trafalgar Square, the town’s oldest drinking hole, dating back to 1570. Sip your St Austell ale surrounded by cosy beamed interiors — all dimly lit nooks and stained glass windows. Stomach still rumbling? Feast on cider-battered fish and chips or plump, wine-soaked mussels, plucked from the Fowey River, just yards away. It doesn’t get much more local than that.

HOW TO DO IT: Kittows The Ship Inn

Trains run from London Paddington to Par; from here, Fowey is 20 minutes away on the number 25 bus. Newquay is a 45-minute drive away. The Old Quay House Hotel has a seaside terrace restaurant and doubles from £195 a night, room only. theoldquayhouse.com

BROWN SUGAR

In Cornwall, a cream tea is practically obligatory. This cafe has the classic iteration with crumbly scones, Rodda’s clotted cream and strawberry jam. Stock up on local Yallah coffee inside and, if you sit outside, keep the umbrella up — otherwise, as staff will warn, seagulls may pinch your treats. brownsugarfowey.com