CAIL BRUICH

GLASGOW • CAILBRUICH.CO.UK

Unlike many fine dining chefs, Lorna Mcnee doesn’t have a signature dish. The first woman in Scotland to have led a restaurant to Michelin-star status, she’s more concerned with storytelling and seasonality. After my meal, she tells me she sees what’s on a plate in terms of form and colour.

At Mcnee’s restaurant, Cail Bruich, in Glasgow’s West End, a humble hen of the woods mushroom is reborn as a jellied sphere, layered with black garlic, Wye Valley asparagus, madeira and summer truffle. A green tomato accompanies a pyramid of West Coast crab, elderflower and Exmoor caviar. The Cashel Blue cheese tart is an artwork of apple slivers.

A Michelin star is not new to Glasgow. The late Andrew Fairlie — as it happens, Mcnee’s former mentor — was among the previous recipients of that particular badge of honour. But until January this year, it had been 18 years since the city had been awarded one. Cail Bruich received its accolade just five months after Mcnee took charge, and rightfully so.

My roast Skye langoustine bisque with ponzu and a rectangle of roe deer with foie gras and spiced fruit are incredible. This is the best restaurant Glasgow has ever had, and hopefully a sign of things to come. Nine-course chef’s tasting menu £105; wine pairing £90 a head. The writer visited in July 2021. Mike Maceacheran