Easy as pie

WHEN THE WEATHER TURNS COLDER, PIES TAKE CENTRE STAGE, AS FROM FRANCE TO FINLAND, COOKS START REACHING FOR THE PASTRY. WORDS: CHRISTIE DIETZ

From the warm smell of baking pastry wafting from the kitchen to that first deeply satisfying flaky (or crumbly) bite, there’s much joy and comfort to be found in a pie. Broadly defined as a baked dish comprising a sweet or savoury filling with a pastry crust either on top (top crust), beneath (single crust), or both (double crust), the humble pie is much more than the sum of its parts. It’s a conveniently portable lunch, an extravagant centrepiece, a simple solution for leftovers, a glorious celebration of seasonal produce, or a tasty nostalgic treat.

The pie has been embraced in varying forms all over the world, and its greatness lies in its endless variations. There are the crispy, flaky, meat-filled filo pastry layers of Egyptian goulash; the rustic puff pastry on a Ligurian spinach and egg torta pasqualina; the old-fashioned, prettily lattice-topped American apple pie; and the shiny, egg-washed, robust hot water pastry encasing a British gala pie.

Time and patience are essential when making a pie from scratch, but the process is more straightforward than you might think — there are just a couple of important things to remember when it comes to preparing both filling and crust. Firstly, it’s crucial not to make your filling too wet, or you’ll end up with a soggy and/or leaky crust. And when it comes to making pastry, resting your dough in the fridge or freezer will make it easier to roll out and line your pie dish; soft dough will stick to your countertop and, being easily damageable, might well crack while your pie’s baking. If you’re not keen on the idea of making your own pastry, don’t worry — these days, there’s plenty of very good readymade dough in the shops.

A squash, leek, cheese and hazelnut galette