THA THIEN & KUDI CHIN

Home to Bangkok’s top tourist sights, Bangkok’s historical quarter is a feast for the stomach as well as the eyes. Sandwiched between the Chao Phraya River and the Wat Pho temple complex, the pastel-coloured buildings of Tha Thien have been given a new lease of life by artists, chefs and mixologists.

Beat the crowds to the Grand Palace and adjoining Wat Pho. The former, all glittering roofs and golden spires, dates back to 1782 and houses one of Thailand’s most sacred Buddhist icons: the Emerald Buddha. Wat Pho’s drawcard, meanwhile, is a 46-metre-long, gold-plated, reclining Buddha. Cool down with a coconutwater cold brew at Elefin Coffee, a corner cafe that sources its beans from Chiang Rai. Hungry? Tuck into a late breakfast of khao tom, rice soup topped with shrimp and fried garlic.

Hop on a river ferry for another historical highlight: Wat Arun, a mosaic-covered temple looming over the river. From here, head southward to Kudi Chin, a historically Portuguese neighbourhood centred on neoclassical Santa Cruz Church. Sit down for a lunch of Portuguese-influenced dishes, such as a non-spicy take on khanom jeen (fermented rice noodles with curry) at Baan Sakul Thong.

Next, visit Baan Kudichin Museum for a lowdown on the local history. For a snack, stop at Thanu Singha, a bakery using an heirloom recipe for its khanom farang kudi chin — ‘foreigner cake’ — a Thai-portuguese muffin topped with raisins and dried sweet gourd.

In the evening, cross the river back to

Tha Tien for Nusara, where chef Thitid Tassanakajohn gives his grandmother’s Thai recipes a fine-dining spin during a 12-course tasting menu. Seats in the tiny dining room book up fast, so May Rai, Tassanakajohn’s natural wine bar downstairs, is a great back-up — try the prawn-topped pad thai, and khao soi (curry soup with noodles) with Wagyu beef. Finish with a lao khao (rice whisky) cocktail at

Rongros, a tiny bar-restaurant with incredible rooftop-terrace views of gold-lit Wat Arun, across the river. And if you’re still peckish, the extensive menu includes spiced soups and shrimp omelette, as well as fried rice sets.

GETTING THERE

Thai Airways flies direct from Heathrow to Bangkok. Emirates, KLM and others fly with one stop from various UK airports.

WHERE TO STAY

Capella Bangkok, on Charoen Krung Road, has doubles from 16,500 THB (£384), B&B. capellahotels.com

HOW TO DO IT

Insideasia Tours has a 13-night Thailand trip with food tours in Bangkok and Chiang Mai, hotels and guides from £2,847 per person, excluding flights. insideasiatours.com

MORE INFO

tourismthailand.org