Pro vs punter
A critic and an O reader test Shelter Hall, an independent food hall on Brighton’s seafront
After arriving at Brighton station, we take a leisurely stroll down to the seafront, where we see the beautiful restored building that houses Shelter Hall. Its prime location on the water gives you an uninterrupted view of the sea, so you can watch people jet-skiing or, if you squint on a particularly clear day, see the wind farms further out into the sea.
The space itself is vast and open, with a lot of indoor and outdoor seating options available. If you’re looking for space on the terrace, it’s advisable to book ahead, especially when the weather is good.
There’s something for everyone here and it’s all ordered via scanning a QR code on your table, then delivered straight to you. From Pan by Lost Boys Chicken we order the Maggie Mayo burger – a thick piece of fried chicken sitting in a traditional toasted burger bun – which is perfectly crispy on the outside and tender in the middle, with lettuce and big dollops of mayonnaise providing extra texture.
Grilled lemon and garlic shell-on tiger prawns from Caught by Crab Shack are big, fat and juicy.
The supremely refreshing, spicy-sweet and salty Hanoi Signature cold noodle salad from Zest by Hanoi Kitchen is a joy for any salad lover. It’s colourful and fresh, made up of perfectly cooked vermicelli noodles dancing with pickled carrots, shredded red cabbage, fresh chillies, mint and peanuts, all tossed in a sweet-and-salty nuoc cham-style dressing.
To finish off the meal (and ourselves in the process), the outrageously delectable strawberries and cream croissant from Tart by Sugardough is a must – a pretty, freshly baked, crisp croissant, loaded with pastry cream and piled with fresh strawberries.
Shelter Hall has created a space with curated food concepts that ensures there is something for everyone. Expect to be very well fed and watered for around £20, all with great views of the sea from the terrace or mezzanine on one of those perfect summer days.
Bill for one, including service: £38.89 Atmosphere: 7
Service: 8
Food: 8
Total: 23/30