spirit o the mo th vodka

The history

Vodka is typically made from grains such as rye and wheat, as well as potatoes. Unlike spirits such as whisky and cognac, vodka isn’t matured and finished in oak casks, which accounts for its colourless, neutral character.

In places such as Russia and Poland, it’s traditionally drunk neat, ice-cold and in shots, and with two things – company and food (especially pickles and salty snacks). It’s vodka’s versatility as a drinks base, however, that saw it soar in popularity in countries such as the US in the 20th century, with vodka cocktails like the moscow mule and cosmopolitan driving sales.

Recent years have seen vodka’s crown slip a little, with sales dented by the boom in gin. This status quo is shifting, however, with the emergence of new vodkas that champion their raw ingredients and position themselves as artisan spirits. Because, while it’s popularly seen as ‘flavourless’, the best expressions will have subtle differences – from creamy potato vodkas to nutty rye ones.

Craft spirits

The UK has witnessed its own mini boom in premium English vodkas, made with anything from potatoes and grains to grapes, and even milk. A recent example is Discarded’s characterful new Grape Skin Chardonnay Vodka (£29.45/70cl, htfw.com). A typically innovative release from this zero-waste spirit brand, grape pomace (crushed skins, stems and seeds left over from wine-making) is distilled to make a spirit and blended with the flavourful alcohol produced from making alcohol-free wine. The resulting vodka is one of the most full-bodied we’ve tried, with a complex, lasting finish. With fruity notes of apple, pear and guava, it’s delicious sipped neat over ice, or try in a simple highball with tonic or sparkling water.

Or, if you prefer something more classic, try Ukrainian Dima’s Vodka (£35/70cl, dimasvodka.com). Made with three different organic grains – barley, wheat and rye – this is a layered spirit with creamy vanilla and anise notes, nuttiness and a hint of spice. Subtly sweet, with a silky texture, sip neat while snacking on pickles.

For more artisan vodkas, check out our guide at Omagazine.com.