Olive Magazine

Our pro says

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Mere weeks after its glitzy Instagram-friendly opening, word has definitely got out about Arcade Food Hall, because it’s absolutely heaving and vibing, even at 7.30pm on a Tuesday. As old-school UK garage is playing in the background, we’re shown to our table in the main dining area – we were lucky to book easily online. I’d strongly advise everyone to book ahead, otherwise you may find yourself very kindly turned away.

The Arcade Food Hall team has created an efficient operation for such a massive space, without it feeling cold or mechanical. There’s something for everyone, with nine kitchens and a fully loaded bar, so bring friends if you want to try a bunch of stuff. My dining pal and I made our joint decisions from various locations, then ordered and paid for our meal via the QR code on the paper menu.

Our pink gin and tonic arrives, and we attack the dishes that come as they’re ready from the kitchens. And, for the most part, they’re all great. Even the weakest dish we ordered – the Nashville hot chicken sandwich that lacked in comparativ­e flavour and intensity where it came to the chilli heat – is still a good option for when you’re hankering for some meat between bread.

But, if you’re looking for a filling dish, the Bouddha crispy pork noodles from the Nepali street food stall Tipan Tapan – noodles with pork mince tossed in soy sauce, garlic and chilli – are very moreish and tasty.

From the many dishes we tried, two really stood out. The first is a starter, the BBQ chicken wings from Hero. Seasoned, roasted chicken wings are drenched in a divine butter masala sauce, with mild chilli lifting the dish. Flaky masala paratha to mop up the sauce is also a must.

The second dish is a dessert – one my low-sugar and lactose-intolerant pal risked everything to try. The strawberri­es and cream trifle from Jelladrome features gloriously wobbly strawberry jelly on a biscuit base with a scoop of ice cream on top. Bits of meringue and strawberry sauce bring a fun eton mess-style element to it. This is the perfect British dessert. Bill for two including service: £68.63 Atmosphere: 8

Service: 9

Food: 9

Total: 26/30

 ?? ?? Eileen Twum is a restaurant critic and start-up executive who’s part of Black Book, a platform for black and non-white people working in hospitalit­y and food media. Follow her on Instagram @eix.leen.
Eileen Twum is a restaurant critic and start-up executive who’s part of Black Book, a platform for black and non-white people working in hospitalit­y and food media. Follow her on Instagram @eix.leen.

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