Our pro says
Piazza has reopened with Richard Robinson (formerly of fine-dining institutions such as The French Laundry and Per Se) at the helm and a menu dictated by the produce available in iconic London institutions, including the 12th-century Smithfield Market, Billingsgate Market and New Covent Garden. There are even rumours that my tap water was from the Thames.
However, for a vintage more elevated than the Thames’s finest, an impressive six-page collection of new and old world wines will keep you sufficiently hydrated, though there’s also an innovative cocktail menu that shouldn’t be missed – I recommend the Parsnips & Pears.
Powered by Heart Xmas, which has graced our radio waves since September, I was oozing festive spirit, and the snacks of duck arancini served with shiitake sauce and mango purée, plus a marrow flatbread and starter of tender, thin-sliced Hereford beef with horseradish and buttermilk did nothing to dampen that. All were perfectly balanced, like a prima donna in full flow – and that is about the extent of my ballet knowledge.
Act II, and I exercised all restraint to pass on an impressive sharing Hertfordshire côte de boeuf, but the slow-cooked Herdwick lamb shoulder served with potato purée and roasted shallots, and lemon sole cooked in a creamy English sparkling wine white sauce proved to be fair compromises. Dishes were delicate, allowing the produce to take centre stage, though too much so for my palate. I can appreciate understatement but it’s a fine line before it becomes timid.
The ending, much like the movie Last Christmas, was surprisingly weak, as the choux buns filled with white chocolate and fig tasted pre-plated, and weren’t reflective of the chef’s pedigree.
But surrounded by walls adorned with sketches of celebrated costumes and displays from past productions at the Royal Opera House, there is certainly no shortage of magic at Piazza and, ultimately, isn’t that what we all want for Christmas?
Bill for two, including service: £176.18 Atmosphere: 8
Service: 7
Food: 7
Total: 22/30