The Daily Telegraph - Saturday - The Telegraph Magazine

CLASSIC HOT CROSS BUNS

- Tested by Angela Hartnett, chef patron of four London restaurant­s

I’m not a fan of chocolate, but have loved fruity malt loaf since I was a little girl, so I’m looking for lots of juicy raisins here. merchantst­avern.co.uk

1. Morrisons The Best Extra Fruity, £1 for four

These have the most brilliant smell, and they are light, airy and not too sweet. The spices don’t overpower the fruit, but still lend a nice aroma.

2. Waitrose Richly Fruited, £1.69 for four

These are loaded with fruit, which gives them a great scent, but they’re underbaked and quite dense. They could also do with more spice in the mix.

3. Lidl Deluxe, 99p for four

A good, dark top, and nice fruit inside, but generally a bit tasteless. They don’t have the kick of citrus and spice.

4. Marks & Spencer Luxury, £1.70 for four

These are very pale inside and out, without a great deal of fruit, so they don’t feel very celebrator­y for Easter.

5. Asda Extra Special Extra Fruity, £1.20 for four

Attractive to look at and absolutely loaded with fruit, which I like. A really good effort.

6. Betty’s Large, £5.75 for 500g

This is a bit like a panettone and has been baked well in a large, single shape. It’s reminiscen­t of a tea loaf. Lots of fruit and a nice crispy top.

7. Tesco Finest Extra Fruity, £1.50 for four

Loads of spice here, so they smell lovely fresh from the toaster. Lots of citrus, too.

8. Daylesford, £3.99 for four

These have a lot less fruit than the others, and mild spices, but they are quite citrussy. The dough is a bit squidgy.

9. Bells of Lazonby from Booths, £1.30 for four

Lots of spice has given these a deep brown top, but slicing into them reveals mainly golden raisins. There isn’t much variety in the fruit.

10. Sainsbury’staste the Difference Fruity, £1.40 for four

These need more fruit and spice, but they have a nice texture. The bases are well coloured, meaning a good bake. Good all-rounders.

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