HOT CROSS BUNS WITH A TWIST

Bread was my first love, and the glaze on these buns is crucial. It should be nice and sticky. bryn-somersethouse.co.uk

1. Tesco Finest Mango, Pineapple and Papaya, £1.50 for four

The dough hasn’t risen greatly and may be slightly underbaked – dense instead of a light and airy dome – but the flavour of the bread is good. It’s a bit tutti frutti!

2. Morrisons The Best Stem Ginger, Turmeric and Mango, £1 for four

These look great, with a defined cross. They smell like piña colada! Beautifully baked throughout, and you can taste every flavour – nothing is overpowering.

3. Booths Chocolate and Ginger, £1.50 for four

These smell chocolatey and the bake looks good on top, but the buns are very dry and crumbly. It’s a shame the execution isn’t quite right.

4. Marks & Spencer Blueberry, £1.70 for four

These are really attractive with their glaze and uniform bake. The fruit is slightly bitty inside, but when you bite into a blueberry it bursts nicely. Team with fruity jam.

5. Lidl Deluxe St Clement’s, 99p for four

A bit sad-looking and they feel underbaked. They are full of fruit and, dare I say it, perhaps too full – maybe that’s why they feel wet. Very moist and dense, but a great citrus flavour.

6. Heston from Waitrose Simnel Inspired, £1.89 for two

These look artisanal, but haven’t been glazed all over. They look a little dry although they are densely packed with raisins, sultanas and orange peel. Traditional spices keep them close to a classic bun.

7. Sainsbury’s taste the Difference Mini Chocolate, £1.40 for four

These taste like brioche so are more like a breakfast bake than a hot cross bun. There’s plenty of chocolate and a nice glaze on top, but the crosses have sunk.

8. Asda Extra Special All-butter Fudge, £1.20 for four

Good-looking and a brilliant bun texture. They’re light and fluffy and would be delicious spread thickly with butter, with a touch of salt. Almost a dessert. Top choice.

9. Waitrose Mini Chocolate Orange, £1.69 for nine

I love this flavour combination (I’m famous for my take on Jaffa Cakes at my restaurant), and this version is successful. There’s a touch of salt and they’re really characterful. Just a bit dry overall.

10. Abel & Cole Mini Earl Grey & Lemon, £2.79 for six

Pale, with thick crosses and no sign of a shiny glaze. I can taste the lemon and there’s some nice peel, but no tea here. The lemon is a lot to compete with.