Animal-free magic

A vegan feast for Easter

AN EASTER FEAST may seem a daunting prospect if you’ve just turned vegan. As Lent draws to a close and abstainers from chocolate, meat and alcohol anticipate breaking their fast with a clutch of foil-wrapped eggs and a glass of bright-fruited merlot alongside their roast leg of lamb (see Hamish Anderson’s guide to bank-holiday quaffing on page 74 for more on that), those pursuing a plant-based diet might find options at the table wanting. All those butter-rich cakes, and eggs, chocolate or otherwise…

The best approach if you’re hosting an Easter get together, says Aine Carlin, is to steer clear of replacing the starter or centrepiece roast dish for dish. ‘Instead I go for lots of smaller options that people can share and help themselves to,’ she advises. ‘Get some great dips on the table, serve up some substantial grains, throw in dishes to create your own menu.’ It relieves the pressure of having to tick all the traditional boxes, and for the food writer, who decided to turn vegan overnight eight years ago, it’s an approach that forms the basis of her new book, Cook Share Eat Vegan.

Look at the Easter menu with an open mind, she says, and it’s not hard to offer something for all tastes – from earthy spelt given a lick of sweetness by

roasted grapes, to rich mushroom parcels made with dairy-free, shop-bought puff pastry. ‘Vegan dishes have so often missed out vital textural contrasts,’ Carlin says. ‘So bring into play toasted nuts, and balance flavours with sweet and savoury notes so that each mouthful delivers something different.’

There’s good news for the sweettoothed, too, with pudding inspiration coming from the back of the kitchen cupboard. ‘I understand how off-putting it can be to have to hunt down xanthan gum or tapioca starch,’ she says of the ingredients often used in ‘free-from’ cookery. ‘I just reach for the whole food that I have in my kitchen.’ That includes the chickpea water, or aquafaba, that plays a starring role in Carlin’s egg-free whisk will work equally well, although it may be a little more tasking on the arms.)

Add the cream of tartar and whisk on a high setting for at least 10 minutes, until thick peaks begin to form. Gradually add the caster sugar, one tablespoon at a time, until the mixture is glossy and thick – this may take up to 30 minutes but it is crucial the mixture is as stiff as possible, so be patient.

Secure the baking paper on the sheet with a dot of meringue under each corner, then spoon over the meringue and shape it into a rough circle or rectangle using a spatula, spreading it out to almost meet the edges of the tray. Transfer to the oven and cook for three and a half hours, then turn off the heat and leave to cool completely in the oven for at least six hours, ideally overnight. Transfer to an airtight container until needed.

Whisk together the coconut yogurt and vanilla seeds (reserving the pod) to combine. Refrigerate until needed.

Place the rhubarb in a saucepan along with the cane sugar, lemon rind, thyme and vanilla pod. Pour over just enough water to cover (200250ml), bring to a very gentle simmer and cook for 10-12 minutes, or until the rhubarb is just cooked through. Leave it to cool in the syrup, then refrigerate for several hours, or until needed.

To assemble, layer the coconut yogurt over the meringue, followed by the rhubarb, and garnish with lemon rind and thyme.

‘Balance sweet and savoury notes so that each mouthful delivers something different’

pavlova. ‘I’ve tried making the recipe with liquid sugars but they didn’t really work. Instead it’s a bizarre thing that happens with the liquid drained from a tin of chickpeas – and the finished thing really doesn’t taste of them!’ It’s time to serve up a spread that satisfies – and might just surprise you, too.

Cook Share Eat Vegan is published by Octopus (£20). To order your copy for £16.99 plus p&p, call 0844-871 1514 or visit books.telegraph.co.uk