London’s Own Little Venice
Susan Claremont watches time float by in this charming and picturesque London neighbourhood.
JUST a short walk from Warwick Avenue underground station, London’s Little Venice can be found straddling Maida Vale and Paddington in the City of Westminster.
Past the decorative railings and through Rembrandt Gardens, the first thing you see is the small island at the centre of Browning’s Pool – named for the poet, who lived nearby from 1862 to 1887 – with its weeping willows reflecting in the water.
Regent’s Canal and the Grand Union Canal meet here, creating an idyllic haven for a change of mood and tempo amidst a hectic itinerary in England’s capital city.
Regent’s Canal was named after the then Prince Regent, later King George IV, and cuts 14 kilometres across London to the Thames. It amalgamated with the Grand Junction Canal, which later became the Grand Union Canal, in 1929.
The Grand Union Canal is Britain’s longest man-made waterway, stretching for 220 kilometres. In its 19th-century glory days, it was the quickest and most straightforward way for transporting goods from London to Birmingham, but – just like the country’s other canals – a flourishing rail system and improved roads meant that its use declined over time.
In stark contrast to those industrial days, Little Venice’s tree-lined waterways are now afloat with colourful recreational vessels, including the Puppet Theatre Barge – a great option for those with children.
The narrowboats are an impressive sight. Some boast modern metallic designs, while others sport a more traditional look, their sides decorated with bright canal folk art of animals and flowers.
Many boats with their windows and doors wide open show off compact, practical and cleverly designed interiors.
The ones with tiny gardens and pot plants outside are the most charming, while a few others store bicycles and motorbikes on their decks.
The scene is a reminder of how transport modes have changed over time.
It’s easy to imagine the clip-clop of horses’ hooves on the towpaths as they hauled the hefty craft back and forward.
Lunchtime necessitates a visit to one of the waterside cafés set up in a converted narrowboat, with tables and chairs available both below deck and along the canal-side.
The wood-clad cabin adds to a cosy atmosphere, and the views from the window are captivating.
Waterbuses chug back and forth, taking in the sights of Regent’s Park, heading to London Zoo, or travelling to Camden Lock Market, famous for its arts and crafts.
Further along, there is even a church. St Mary Magdalene’s was built at the end of the 1800s and stands regally in the foreground of Westbourne Green.
Restaurants and pubs serving refreshments are dotted along the embankments, reached easily by crossing bridges spanning the water. All have a unique style, whether contemporary, historical or exquisitely painted.
Below a road overpass at Paddington Central you’ll find a sculpture named “Two Figures (Meeting Place)”, depicting two men facing each other a few metres apart. Sean Henry’s work is just by the canalside and worth a visit, and I applaud his talent.
From those static forms to real people: I’ve read and heard that there are many celebrities who live in and frequent Little Venice. No wonder. It certainly seems to be one of London’s best-kept secrets, where they are less likely to be recognised.