Veni, Vidi, Veneto!
Venice may be its capital, but Gillian Thornton finds so much more to see and do in this historic region of Italy.
VENICE is one of the world’s best-loved city break destinations, whatever the season – and it is well worth a visit. But by turning my back on the iconic sights of St Mark’s Square and the Grand Canal to head inland across the fertile plain, I fell under the spell of three more unique cities, all just an easy train ride from La Serenissima.
PADUA
Climbing the broad stone steps to the loggia that fringes Padua’s Palazzo della Ragione, I was enchanted to look down on picturesque squares that are as busy today as they were in mediaeval and Roman times – the fruit market on one side, the vegetable and flower market on the other.
The vaulted ceiling above me was covered in intricate paintings of fruit and flowers, while inside the Great Hall – built in the 13th century as a council chamber and law court – the astrological frescoes were literally out of this world.
Everywhere I looked, Padua offered some new delight.
In the neighbouring square, the Piazza dei Signori, I found a huge astronomical clock on the Palazzo del Capitanio. With its tempting boutiques beneath charming arcades, this was the perfect spot to settle down on a café terrace for some peoplewatching.
Closest of my three cities to Venice, Padua is home to Italy’s second-oldest university, which was founded in 1222.
I would have loved to take a tour to see the lectern where Galileo taught physics for nearly 20 years, but sadly it was closed when I visited.
I still enjoyed following in his footsteps, however, through historic streets which also welcomed
Dante, Donatello and
Titian.
A must-visit snack stop in Padua is Caffe Pedrocchi, which can be found near the university campus. Built in the style of a classical temple, it has been a famous meeting place for students and academics since 1831.
But the city’s most prized possession, and one of its main draws for tourists, is the Cappella degli Scrovegni. Built in 1303, the chapel is home to a cycle of floor-to-ceiling frescoes by Giotto, which depict a series of intricately detailed Biblical scenes.
These are considered an important masterpiece of Western art, and visitor numbers are strictly regulated – so do book ahead to avoid disappointment.
Admissions are timed, with a gap of 15 minutes between groups to help stabilise the micro-climate inside the building.
No forward planning is needed, though, to visit the towering Basilica of Sant’Antonio, a church dedicated to St Anthony of Padua and embellished with Byzantine domes and priceless artworks.
And don’t miss the beautiful Botanical Garden behind it – the world’s first, it is listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The adjacent Garden of Biodiversity will take you on a journey through the earth’s climate zones inside modern glasshouses.
VICENZA
The moment I walked out of the station and headed along Viale Roma between verdant parks, I found myself falling for Vicenza.
It’s a modest-sized town that many visitors overlook in favour of its more illustrious neighbours, and I have to admit it was just a name to me, too, until I discovered that it was home to the 16th-century architect Andrea Palladio.
Inspired by the buildings of ancient Greece and Rome, this visionary designer created the Palladian style, familiar for its pillars, porticoes and symmetry – just think the White House in Washington DC, Buckingham Palace in London, and the grand palaces of St Petersburg.
Vicenza has 23 monuments on the UNESCO World Heritage Site list. Just pick up the free leaflet from the Tourist Information Centre to take a self-guided walk around the historic quarter, bisected by the Corso Palladio – what else?
The Palladian Basilica in the centre of the town’s own Piazza dei
Signori boasts a roof in the shape of an upturned boat, and there are great views over the square from its terrace – a good spot to dine as the sun goes down.
I enjoyed wandering among the artworks in the Civic Art Gallery, housed inside another of Palladio’s great masterpieces, the Palazzo Chiericati.
But my absolute favourite example of the area’s stunning architecture was the extraordinary Olympic Theatre, which can be found tucked inside the castle courtyard beside the Tourist Information Centre.
Designed by Palladio in the style of an ancient Roman theatre, it opened in March 1585, and is the oldest indoor theatre in the world.
Vicenza, of course, has a museum dedicated to Palladio, alongside a Museum of Jewellery and a Natural History and Archaeological Museum.
But be sure to leave time just to relax over a leisurely meal and absorb the view and the atmosphere.
Local produce here includes white asparagus, salami, cured ham, olive oil and cherries – perfect fare for an alfresco lunch!
VERONA
This was the furthest of my three cities from Venice. Shakespeare helped put this elegant and powerful city on the 17th century map of Europe with his plays “Two Gentlemen Of Verona” and, of course, “Romeo And Juliet”.
Situated less than an hour from the southern shore of Lake Garda, it is a popular day-trip destination for visitors, though they are likely to miss its full splendour.
The historic part of the city is tucked in a tight loop of the River Adige, and the main hub is the broad, open space of Piazza Bra.
One of the largest squares in Italy, Piazza Bra is dominated by the extraordinary Roman arena. Built between 20 and 40 AD, this breathtaking structure predates the Colosseum in Rome by some 30 years, and will excite both history buffs and amateur architects alike.
The opera season was in full swing when I visited in June, but it was still possible to tour the interior – just remember that it closes mid-afternoon to prepare for the performance!
Heading down the bustling Via Mazzini, I stopped off for a glimpse of “Juliet’s house”.
Shakespeare was supposedly inspired by the family who once lived here, nestled in a small courtyard, and you can buy a ticket to view the interior of their property.
The balcony was a much later addition, unfortunately, so unless you’re an incurable romantic, my advice would be to peep over the tourists’ heads, then make for nearby Piazza Erbe.
Here, if you’ve a head for heights, you can take the lift up the Torre dei Lamberti for a fantastic panorama across squares and rooftops.
The river banks offer a different perspective, with numerous bridges across the Adige linking the historic town centre with the surrounding hills.
My favourite crossing place was the crenelated red brick bridge of Castelvecchio, which leads to the 14th century riverside castle of the counts of Verona.
There’s another strategic castle on the summit of the San Pietro hill, above the riverside Roman theatre.
Built in 25 BC, before the arena, the theatre was in use up to 300 AD, thanks to its excellent acoustics and panoramic location.
Expect great views towards the cathedral and other major monuments. And if you’ve time left over, just wander the streets.
Peep into courtyards. Look inside churches. Soak up the atmosphere of this special city.
Veneto truly is home to some enchanting places.
So, next time you think of a romantic getaway to the canals of Venice, why not widen the net ever so slightly?
You may discover, like I did, places like Verona, Padua and Vicenza, which are guaranteed to surprise and delight.