Gillian Thornton loves a leisurely cruise along the Rhine
EARLY morning on the Moselle river, and from my cabin window I watch wisps of summer mist curl over the still water.
A heron waits at the water’s edge and a family of swans glides past in search of breakfast. An idyllic start to anyone’s day.
I should get out of bed, but there’s no rush. I’m cruising two of Europe’s most iconic rivers on board Brabant, B a 180-passenger vessel operated by Fred Olsen Cruise Lines, and I’m in chilled-out mood.
I’ve chosen a week-long itinerary, starting in Switzerland and following the Rhine north through France and Germany to Dusseldorf.
Brabant offers a whole range of European waterway itineraries, but Scenic Delights of the Moselle Valley has the bonus of combining the mighty Rhine with a trip down the tranquil Moselle.
After boarding Brabant in Basel, our first port of call is Strasbourg, capital of France’s Grand Est region and seat of the Council of Europe.
The historic heart – the
Grande-Ile – was the first city centre to be classified as a World Heritage site by UNESCO in 1988, and it’s an absolute gem, with its half-timbered houses, flower-fringed waterways and magnificent cathedral.
Sailing through the night, we arrive before breakfast in Speyer, one of Germany’s oldest towns.
It’s a delight with its cathedral, tranquil gardens and fascinating Jewish courtyard, hidden during the Nazi regime.
Speyer has a popular museum of vintage vehicles, but I visit the town museum to see the world’s oldest wine bottle, found in a Roman tomb and dating from 325 AD.
It’s still full of cloudy wine sealed with olive oil. I’m not surprised that no-one has been tempted to try it!
Continuing north, we make a short stop in Mannheim, renowned for its shopping district, before cruising towards Bingen and the start of the famous Rhine Gorge.
Here, the river flows for 65km between steep hills, each, it seems, topped with a castle, and small towns with coloured houses and slender church spires.
Each day, passengers are provided with Fred Olsen’s handy “Daily Times” with
information about ports of call and onboard activities.
Today we have a handy sheet identifying 24 of these photogenic castles. So useful for captioning my numerous holiday photos!
We pass the Lorelei rock, narrowest point on the river and legendary home to a siren who lured passing sailors.
We stop off in Oberwesel, which still boasts 16 of its 21 mediaeval defensive towers. Life along the Rhine wasn’t always peaceful.
Beyond the Gorge lies Koblenz, which stands at the confluence of the Rhine and Moselle.
Brabant glides beneath the cable car that whisks passengers to Ehrenbreitstein Fortress, second-largest castle in Europe, and we moor up in the heart of the action, as it’s carnival weekend.
Next morning, we step down a gear as Brabant cruises the Upper Moselle valley with its steep vineyards and bijou towns.
We pitch up in TrabenTrarbach, ready to explore this twin community that straddles the river.
After a delicious buffet lunch – a highlight of each day on board – we stop again in Bernkastel-Kues amidst the vineyards of the Middle Moselle.
I jump on the land train, conveniently close to our mooring in Bernkastel, for a trundle across the river to Kues and up above the Riesling vineyards.
Then I alight in the mediaeval market place of Bernkastel with its 17th-century half-timbered houses and Renaissance town hall.
We spend the late afternoon meandering back up the Moselle towards Koblenz, but next morning there’s an unforgettable stop in the town of Cochem.
Here, I opt for Fred Olsen’s guided excursion to Reichsburg Castle.
With its towers and turrets, battlements and wood-panelled rooms, it’s everyone’s idea of a magic castle, and we finish our tour with a glass of local wine served in a souvenir glass to bring home.
Cochem proves glorious, each new corner opening up tempting routes to explore through the quaint town centre.
I skip the mustard museum and chairlift in favour of coffee in the market square and the stunning contemporary stained glass in the church of St Martin.
Joining the Rhine again at Koblenz, we cruise to Cologne, where we have a morning to explore the famous Gothic cathedral, visit the art gallery or Roman history museum, or soak up the atmosphere of one of Germany’s most vibrant cities.
Whichever you choose, do leave time for the extensive Chocolate Museum.
Learn how chocolate is made, design your own bar, and then stock up on Lindt, Milka and other tempting brands.
After lunch, we set off for Dusseldorf, arriving in time for a walk before a final dinner on board.
Next morning, we say our goodbyes, but I’ve a suitcase full of chocolate and a camera full of memories.
Visit www. fredolsencruises.com Tel: 0800 188 4601 For discount deals on airport parking, hotels and lounges, see www.holidayextras.com
We are currently required to avoid all unnecessary travel. Keep this destination in mind for when restrictions are lifted.