On The Wild Whale Trail
Polly Pullar is captivated by the ocean giants to be seen in the waters around the Hebrides.
IAM standing on the island of Coll on a headland fringed with greeny-gold marram grasses, and a sea of turquoise stretches before me.
Six basking sharks are close to land, gently travelling through the water, their enormous mouths agape as they feast on plankton.
I have been fortunate to see basking sharks on numerous occasions from Ardnamurchan to the Sound of Canna, from Rum to Hysgeir, and far out on the long voyage to St Kilda.
Sometimes it was only one or two, but once dozens appeared; so many, in fact, that we lost count.
The basking shark is a fascinating benign giant – the second largest fish in the sea, and one whose natural history still retains more than a touch of the mystical.
Often people are surprised to learn that it is possible to see numerous large marine mammals in Scottish waters.
They are unaware that a list of 24 species has been recorded, some of which are seen frequently.
The list includes minke whale, killer whale (orca), harbour porpoise, basking shark and common, bottlenose and Risso’s dolphin.
Sperm, sei, fin, humpback, pilot and Cuvier’s beaked whale appear, too, from time to time, as well as striped and white-sided dolphins and extraordinary sunfish.
And every year there seem to be new species not previously recorded. You never know what might appear out of the blue.
Last summer the Hebridean Whale Trail was launched.
An inspirational initiative financed by the Coastal Communities Fund and delivered by the National Lottery Community Fund, it is led by the Hebridean Whale and Dolphin Trust (HWDT).
Together they are working with local groups and conservation charities, as well as businesses and individuals.
The aim is not only to boost local economies but also, importantly, to raise awareness of the importance of protecting our seas and all therein.
The trail promotes low-impact eco-tourism in areas of untamed natural beauty and also highlights the available facilities, from transport options and places to stay to suitable eateries to enhance the visitor experience.
The Whale Trail is divided into six key areas – Lewis and Harris; Uist and Barra; North-west Highlands; Skye and the Small Isles; Inner Hebrides and South Hebrides and the Clyde.
Each area has specific beautiful locations with facilities and viewpoints, and information on the species you might be lucky enough to see.
The panoramic position of most lighthouses on prominent headlands means that they, too, are usually likely to be excellent places for landbased cetacean watching.
Many of the sites mentioned are on islands, but there are some on the mainland, including
Britain’s most westerly mainland point, Ardnamurchan, and the lighthouse at Cape Wrath.
Though exhilarating, stormy weather is not usually conducive to whale watching as it can be hard to see when waves are battering the coastline.
Your best chance of sightings will be on days when the sea is as flat as a mirror and barely a ripple breaks the surface.
As with all wildlifewatching, patience is a key ingredient to success, and there are no guarantees, but that is all part of the fun.
A good pair of binoculars or a telescope can help, too.
Looking out for fishing gannets diving into the water and the arrival of large flocks of gulls and other seabirds may also help you to see whales.
Sometimes, like the birds, they are attracted to large shoals of fish and may suddenly appear in these dynamic feeding frenzies when the water boils like a cauldron.
Whale watching is a peaceful occupation and, even if you don’t see a whale, dolphin or porpoise, being outside in the heart of nature will be reward enough. Time to relax in the moment is part of the ethos of the Hebridean Whale Trail.
It’s possible to see cetaceans all around the British coastline.
Though not included in
the Hebridean Whale Trail, the east and north coastline, Orkney and Shetland are also locations with a high possibility of seeing marine mega-fauna.
Whales and dolphins are intelligent mammals, dependent on a highly sophisticated system of echolocation.
They have a complex way of communicating with one another, are warmblooded, breathe air and give birth to live young.
The group name “cetacean” originates from the Latin cetus meaning large sea creature.
Cetaceans are incredibly vulnerable to changes in the environment and most whales, dolphins and porpoises that are found dead on our shores contain the dreaded plastic in one form or another.
Plastic bags tied up in their stomachs may be the cause of death. Many bear the scars of collisions with boats.
Whales may be very long-lived, and survey teams recognise individuals by the distinctive nicks and markings on their dorsal fins.
Photo ID is a vital tool for helping gather information about individuals and helps to track their movements and the problems they face in a world where their habitat is frequently disturbed.
Whales fall into two separate groups – odontocetes, the toothed whales, and mysticetes, the baleen whales.
Though both types breathe through their lungs, the latter have two nostrils or blowholes, whereas the toothed whales only have one blowhole.
Experts can tell which kind of whale it is merely from the way its blow appears when it surfaces.
Baleen whales have special baleen plates in their mouths to sieve water and extract plankton and tiny fish, whereas the toothed whales consume larger prey.
Killer whales (orca) are toothed whales that often prey on seals.
Ferry journeys can also bring wonderful opportunities for seeing whales.
There are few journeys out to any of the Hebrides where minke whales or porpoises don’t put in a brief appearance, and sometimes dolphins follow acrobatically in the wake of the boat.
They seem to relish the attention of dozens of awe-struck tourists recording the moment on their phones.
On the journey across the Pentland Firth heading to Orkney, you may spot killer whales, too.
Usually, the captain makes an announcement and everyone races up on deck.
Crossing over to the Small Isles from Arisaig, the skipper of one boat often combines the journey with whale watching.
Then, if you are lucky, you may witness a minke whale so close to the boat that you can not only smell its brassica-scented breath but can also catch a glimpse of its beautiful eye.
These benign behemoths seem to enjoy being close to humans.
Astonishing that they appear so forgiving, given that man has a long tradition of cruel whaling and almost wiped them out altogether.
Whaling was still taking place in some coastal areas in Scotland right up into the 1960s.
Thankfully, initiatives such as the excellent Hebridean Whale Trail help us realise that we must do all we can to protect these unique marine mammals and now treat them with the love and respect they deserve.