Richard Webber explores Gloucestershire’s 12th-century Berkeley Castle
SET amid the lush Gloucestershire landscape, 12thcentury Berkeley Castle is, to use a cliché, a real gem. On the edge of the Cotswolds, it’s an elegant landmark and a must-see for anyone visiting this corner of England.
My family and I visited one bright summer morning when the tranquillity emanating from this peaceful setting was broken only by the chatter of visitors and evocative birdsong above.
It’s hard to imagine the battles which raged here over the centuries.
Built originally as a defence against the invading Welsh, its strategic position between Bristol and Gloucester, with encircling meadows able to be flooded, meant it was well nigh impregnable.
Carved from soft pink stone, which is said to glow in the evening sunlight, it was originally built as a motte and bailey castle just after the Norman Conquest.
A stark reminder of the castle’s turbulent past is the chunk blown out of the castle wall by Oliver Cromwell during the
English Civil War.
Not only has it endured many conflicts, it’s had its fair share of important people, including Henry VIII, who is said to have honeymooned there after his marriage to Anne Boleyn, while Queen Elizabeth I stayed at the castle during a procession through Gloucestershire in the 1570s.
Perhaps the most controversial entry in its history books is the imprisonment and eventual murder of Edward II in 1327, reputedly killed within the castle walls.
But it’s not just historical figures and royalty who have embraced the castle over the centuries. Literary greats such as Shakespeare have mentioned it in their work.
It’s believed that “A Midsummer Night’s
Dream” was penned for a Berkeley family wedding, while the castle is also mentioned in “Richard II”.
In recent times, many film and TV companies have used Berkeley Castle and its grounds in their productions, including “Poldark”, “Wolf Hall” and “The Two Ronnies”.
The castle is reputedly the oldest building in England to have been lived in by the same family.
Amazingly, many generations of the Berkeley family – spanning nearly 900 years – have lived in or been involved in the running of the castle and its estate.
The castle visitors flock to today can largely be credited to the work of
Lord Berkeley, the 8th Earl, who, back in the 1920s, sold Berkeley Square in London’s Mayfair for
Richard Webber explores a 12th-century landmark near the Cotswolds.
£2 million to fund major restoration work.
A trained architect and among the leading restorers of his time, Lord Berkeley explored France and Italy sourcing windows and doors to restore the castle to its former mediaeval glory after Victorian ancestors had made changes not to his approval.
During the mid-17th century the castle’s owners injected life into the extensive gardens by filling in the moat and creating additional gardens upon the outer defences.
Subsequent residents made various additions, including a large kitchen garden, which fed the Berkeley family for years.
But it was Lord Berkeley who introduced much of what is seen today, including a swimming pool terrace, tennis courts and golf-course.
Another addition came in 1984 with the introduction of a tropical Butterfly House, though recently this has permanently closed.
The current owner is Charles Berkeley, who took over the running of the castle in 2018 and lives on the estate with his wife Daisy – who won bronze in team eventing for Great Britain at the 2008 Beijing Olympics – their young daughter, Mary, and Charles’s mother, Georgina.
But maintaining such a prestigious property comes at a cost. A recent rewiring project came in at around £2.5 million, and the basic upkeep eats up around £300,000 annually.
Thankfully, the castle – part of which operates as a charitable trust – is in good condition financially and well run. This reflects in the visitor experience.
Wandering around the castle, we were amazed by the sumptuous rooms open to the public, most containing useful information boards.
There are myriad artefacts on display, too. In fact, the castle houses a fine collection of over
150 paintings and artefacts bequeathed by important visitors from the past.
Among the treasures is Sir Francis Drake’s Cabin Chest.
With so much history retained within its walls, it’s not surprising to learn that Berkeley Castle attracts around 40,000 people annually.
The castle and surrounding estate occupy 6,000 acres, including 18 tenant farms, a mediaeval deer park and Slimbridge Wetland Centre.
Slimbridge, just a few miles away, is definitely worth a visit while you’re in the area.
Regarded as a 100-acre wetland paradise, it’s a haven for wildlife where the open spaces are bursting with nature. In winter alone around 30,000 ducks, geese and swans call this spot home.
So, when happier times return, pack your bags and head for this corner of Gloucestershire – you won’t be disappointed. ■
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