Garry Fraser explores the legacy of Britain’s ports
When Britain really ruled the waves, ports and harbours were bustling enterprises. Garry Fraser shares the history of five from around our coast.
Belfast
The city’s Maritime Mile is a titanic attraction in more than one sense of the word.
Belfast’s Harland and Wolff shipyard was where this great ship was built, and you can step back in time and stand beside the restored slipways where it was launched.
The slipways contain a memorial listing all those who sank on its maiden voyage in 1912.
To really get a sense of the past, you can go on board the SS Nomadic, RMS Titanic’s little sister, now included in the Titanic Belfast visitor experience.
But there’s more to this Maritime Mile than memories of Titanic.
Sailortown is the oldest remaining residential area, with links to the harbour and its dockers, and once had over 5,000 people packed into its small, terraced streets.
The Harbour Heritage Room hosts a permanent exhibition to celebrate 400 years of Belfast’s maritime history.
The organisers of the Mile have also cleverly interwoven other attractions that reflect other sides of Belfast culture.
The city’s Titanic Studios was the main studio for all eight series of “Game Of Thrones” and the Glass of Thrones are six giant stained-glass windows designed by local artists.
Add to that a Public Art Trail and a Treasure Trail and you have all the ingredients for a great family day out.
Find out more at www.maritimemile.com.
Dundee
The nautical history of Dundee goes as far back as the 17th century, but was at its height in the 19th century when whaling and the import of jute became its life-blood.
However, it’s only in the last few years that this heritage has been acknowledged, in the shape of the Dundee Maritime Trail. It might be only 1.5 miles long, but it combines public art with historic ships and buildings, merging 20th-century architecture – the V&A museum – with Scotland’s oldest preserved warship, the 19th-century HMS Unicorn.
“It all started in 1986, when the RRS Discovery, which was launched in Dundee in 1902, was brought back for a permanent berth in the city’s docks,” Doctor Andrew Jeffrey, naval historian and one of the prime movers behind the trail, says.
“It is the only Dundee-built ship still afloat, and is the ideal base for a tour of Dundee’s maritime history.
“This history is centred on the harbour, the river, shipyards, the shipbuilders, the ships, the crews who sailed them, the passengers who trod their decks, and the great events they were caught up in.”
The trail is suitable for all abilities and includes the Tay Road Bridge; Chandlers Lane, where the Discovery was built; HMS Unicorn; the North Carr Lightship, believed to be the last remaining Scottish lightship; Port of Dundee Custom House; and the Sailor’s Home, which bears the names of famous seafarers, including Nelson, Cook and Admiral Duncan, victor over the Dutch at the Battle of Camperdown. Find out more at www. dundeemaritime.co.uk.
King’s Lynn
Situated on the banks of the River Great Ouse, King’s Lynn has been one of the nation’s foremost ports from the 12th century onwards. Today, its nautical history is central to its standing as a tourist attraction – thanks to its Maritime Trail.
“Many notable buildings lie within the town centre,” Norfolk tourism manager Philip Eke says, “like the Custom House (a merchants’ exchange venue from 1685) and the
Hanse House (a venue for seafaring Hanse League traders from 14751751), which remain as active beacons of our maritime heritage.
“The Maritime Trail offers a vital and fascinating context to such a strong and appealing history to our visitors as they explore the architecture of the town.”
The trail takes you through four of the city’s historic wards that were the scenes of centuries of life and trade – North End Ward, Trinity Ward, Chequer Ward and Stonegate Ward – and you’ll find where the young Horatio Nelson learned to sail.
You start the trail at True’s Yard Fisherfolk Museum, which features King’s Lynn’s last Victorian smokehouse, and you’ll finish this maritime meander at Marriott’s Warehouse, which was built in the late 16th century.
“Since the Maritime Trail was founded, national awareness of the city’s nautical history has increased.
“Examples are the port trading scenes of Armando Iannucci’s ‘The
Personal History of David Copperfield’, as well as the major player route and port setting within Ubisoft’s ‘Assassin’s Creed: Valhalla’ videogame.” Visit www. visitwestnorfolk.com.
Truro
After a hard day’s trailing, you deserve some good food and drink to unwind and think back on the wonderful sights you’ve seen. Well, with the Maritime Line Real Ale Trail that runs for Truro to Falmouth in Cornwall, you can kill two birds with one stone.
It takes approximately 25 minutes to travel the line, but you can jump off any time you want at any of the stops en route – Perranwell, Penryn and Penmere – for refreshment.
The trail was launched in 2003 and accompanies previously established Tarka Line and Tamar Valley Line Real Ale trails.
“The idea of the trails is two-fold,” Rebecca Catterall of the Devon and Cornwall Rail Partnership says. “Not only are the branch lines very scenic and provide a great day out in their own right, but by promoting local pubs as places to stop off, the trails are playing a role in boosting the local economy.”
After you’ve enjoyed 25 minutes of stunning West Country countryside, and a beer or two to boot, Falmouth offers you a maritime experience that’s hard to beat – and its more or less all under the one roof.
National Maritime Museum Cornwall is home to 15 galleries which explore the influence of the sea on history and culture in the area.
Visit www.greatscenicrailways.co.uk to find out more.