Gourmet Traveller (Australia)

THE EXPLAINER

A staple in Singaporea­n and Malaysian coffee shops, this coconut spread lends an extra dimension to sweet breakfasts and desserts.

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Kaya.

WHAT IS IT?

Kaya is very sweet coconut custard made with coconut milk and sugar, thickened with egg and often flavoured with pandan leaf. It’s popular throughout South-East Asia, particular­ly in Malaysia, the Philippine­s, Singapore and parts of Indonesia. There are two main types: Hainanese kaya made with caramelise­d or brown sugar, which has a rich caramel colour, and Nyonya kaya, tinted green by the pandan that flavours it. In addition, the recipe varies from house to house – some use duck eggs, others chicken; some are thick and spreadable while others have a thinner consistenc­y. Considerin­g the ingredient­s, it’s no surprise that the word translates to “rich” in Malay. The best versions are beautifull­y smooth and so thick you can stand a spoon up in them.

WHY DO WE CARE?

If you’ve ever had kaya toast – charcoal-grilled bread topped with a generous whack of salted butter and spread thickly with kaya (often served with a strong coffee and soft eggs seasoned with dark soy and pepper) – you’ll know this spread is addictive. If you haven’t, all you need to know is that kaya makes pancakes, crêpes and waffles (or anything you’d drizzle with honey or maple syrup) better than you could ever imagine.

WHERE CAN I GET IT?

You can buy commercial­ly produced kaya from select Asian grocery stores, but if you can’t find it, try our home-made version here. It takes a lot of stirring, but trust us, one taste and it will be worth it.

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