Tr i p notes

Getting there

The main Cornish town of Truro is a five-hour drive from London. For a seamless (and rather lovely) transfer, take the overnight Riviera Express sleeper train from London Paddington to Truro, departing just before midnight and arriving about 7am.

Stay

Artist Residence A Bohemian vibe attracts a cool crowd to this 23-room hotel on historic Chapel Street in Penzance. It faces the Admiral Benbow pub – possibly that Admiral Benbow, but definitely old and yo-ho-ho. 20 Chapel St, Penzance, +44 1736 365 664, artistresidencecornwall.co.uk The Beach The sunset deck of this stylish retreat overlooking Summerleaze Beach

in Bude is filled with weekend surfers from London kicking back with Cornish Mules. Summerleaze Cres, Bude, +44 1288 389 800, thebeachatbude.co.uk Fowey Hall Hanson Dr, Fowey, +44 1726 833 866, foweyhallhotel.co.uk The Headland Hotel and Spa This 19th-century institution in Newquay has clifftop views over Fistral Beach, a fine-diner, plush pavilion bar and a resident surf instructor in Dom Moore. Fistral Beach, Newquay, +44 1637 872 211, theheadland.co.uk The Old Coastguard Most of the 14 bedrooms have water views. The Parade, Mousehole, Penzance, +44 1736 731 222, oldcoastguardhotel.co.uk

Eat

The Beach Restaurant Chef Joe Simmons is making waves by amping up Cornish ingredients. His charred mackerel with aniseed shallots and wasabi is a standout. Summerleaze Cres, Bude, +44 1288 389 800, thebeachatbude.co.uk Fowey Hall Restaurant The hotel’s fine-diner champions Cornish produce and dishes. Hanson Dr, Fowey, +44 1726 833 866, foweyhallhotel.co.uk The Lost Gardens of Heligan Kitchen & Bakery Boasting food yards rather than food miles, Heligan’s seasonal produce is a feature in dishes such as a frittata of chard and yarg, the latter a Cornish cow’s milk cheese traditionally wrapped in nettles. Pentewan, Saint Austell, +44 1726 845 100, heligan.com The Old Coastguard The Parade, Mousehole, Penzance, +44 1736 731 222, oldcoastguardhotel.co.uk Pintxo 38 Esplanade, Fowey, +44 1726 337 450, pintxo.co.uk St Tudy Inn St Tudy, Bodmin, +44 1208 850 656, sttudyinn.com

Do

Camel Valley Vineyard Nanstallon, Bodmin, +44 1208 77 959, camelvalley.com Encounter Cornwall Three-hour guided kayak tours along the Fowey River. The Boatshed, Golant, Fowey, +44 7976 466 123, encountercornwall.com Fowey Museum Trafalgar Sq, Fowey, +44 1726 833 513, museumsincornwall.org.uk King Arthur’s Great Halls Fore St, Tintagel, +44 1840 770 526, kingarthursgreathalls.co.uk The Lost Gardens of Heligan Pentewan, Saint Austell, +44 1726 845 100, heligan.com Minack Theatre Porthcurno, Penzance, +44 1736 810 181, minack.com Surf Sanctuary Cornwall’s popularity as a surfing destination took off in the 1990s, and it continues to ride that wave. It’s centred on Fistral Beach in Newquay, a huge swoop of sand served by board-hiring spots, bars and cafés. Surf instructor Dom Moore runs a school from his Surf Sanctuary in The Headland Hotel and Spa. He starts his lessons on the headland, showing students how the waves below form and move. “It helps demystify it if they can see it from above,” he explains. Headland Rd, Newquay, +44 7540 155 123, surfsanctuary.co.uk