Bulgur, Lentil & Artichoke Salad

(recipe on page 151) Earthy cumin and loads of fresh dill are what summer salad dreams are made of. These big flavours work beside virtually anything you can throw at them, but it’s likely you’ll eat this salad by the endless spoonfuls, all by itself.

BULGUR, LENTIL & ARTICHOKE SALAD

The best kinds of summer salads are the sort you can put in the fridge and pull out whenever you’re hungry. There’s a lot of work up front here, but each step adds flavour. The payoff is a healthy salad that you can keep on hand for days. White vinegar has fallen out of favour, but its clean flavour works beautifully here. Be sure to use 5 percent acid vinegar and not the stronger 7 percent pickling vinegar.

LENTILS

4 cups (1 L) water

1 tsp (5 mL) salt

2 tbsp (30 mL) white vinegar

¾ cup (175 mL) French green lentils

BULGUR

1 cup (250 mL) bulgur 1¾ cups (425 mL) water

CARAMELIZED ONIONS

3 tbsp (45 mL) olive oil

1 large Spanish onion, halved and thinly sliced Salt

TO ASSEMBLE

8 baby artichokes

2 tbsp plus 1/4 cup (30 mL plus 60 mL) olive oil, divided

3 tbsp (45 mL) white vinegar

1 tsp (5 mL) ground cumin

2 cups (500 mL) chopped dill

Salt to taste

1 To cook lentils, combine water, salt and vinegar in a medium pot over medium heat. Bring to a boil, add lentils, cover and cook until tender, 25 to 30 minutes. Drain and set aside in a large salad bowl.

2 Clean out pot, add the bulgur and water; cover and bring to a boil. Cook until water is absorbed, about 12 minutes. Fluff with a fork and add to salad bowl.

3 In a large skillet, heat oil over medium heat. Add onions, season generously with salt, cover and cook, undisturbed, for 10 minutes. Remove lid and continue to cook, stirring every 5 minutes or so, for 40 to 50 minutes longer or until deeply caramelized. Scrape into salad bowl.

4 Trim the artichokes of their stems and ½ inch (1 cm) of their tops. Slice each into 4 pieces lengthwise. Heat 2 tbsp (30 mL) oil in a clean skillet over medium. Add artichokes and fry 3 minutes per side or until golden; add to bowl.

5 Dress salad with remaining ¼ cup (60 mL) olive oil, vinegar, cumin and dill; gently mix. Season to taste with salt. Serve right away while still warm or cover and refrigerate for as long as 5 days. Serve 6 to 8

WHAT TO SERVE

F Lurton Fumées Blanches Sauvignon Blanc LCBO 472555 $13.20 The zippy acidity of the wine helps preserve the delicate flavours of the artichokes, while the light smokiness enhances the earthy tones of the dish.

Château des Charmes Brut Méthode Traditionelle VQA LCBO 224766 $24.95 The traditional method of sparkling wine production creates deep toasty flavours that echo the nuttiness of bulgur and lentils.

IMPROVISED FRITTATA Eggs are an inexpensive canvas for great local produce, and frittatas lend themselves beautifully to improvisation. Whatever vegetable or combination of vegetables you choose, keep in mind they will cook further once you add the eggs—you want tender-crisp in the case of corn, zucchini, peppers, green beans, peas, cauliflower and the like. Potatoes should be cooked until tender and golden, while cherry tomatoes should be cooked just until they burst. Don’t be afraid to add a tbsp (15 mL) chopped thyme, ½ cup (125 mL) basil leaves, or to garnish with chopped parsley.

8 eggs

¼ cup (60 mL) finely grated Parmesan, Pecorino Romano, ricotta salata or Manchego (optional) Salt and freshly ground black pepper

Herbs, if using

2 tbsp (30 mL) olive oil

1 lb (455 g) preferred vegetables, in bite-size pieces

5 green onions, chopped

1 Preheat oven to 400°F (200°C).

2 In a large bowl, whisk together eggs and cheese; season with salt and pepper. If using thyme or basil, add those now as well.

3 Heat oil in a 9-inch (23-cm) nonstick skillet over medium heat. Add vegetables, season with salt and pepper and cook until desired doneness. Stir in green onions, distribute vegetables evenly and gently pour egg mixture over. Cook without stirring for 3 to 4 minutes or until edges are set (centre will still be wet).

4 Place in oven and bake until just firm, about 10 minutes. Let stand 10 minutes more then turn out onto a serving plate. Cut into 6 wedges and serve warm or at room temperature along with the Spanish Ketchup and Roasted Garlic & Saffron Alioli (recipes follow).

Serves 6 WHAT TO SERVE

Cavas Hill 1887 Brut

LCBO 370866 $14.25

The creamy bubbles of traditional method sparkling wine are a mouth-pleasing complement to the richness of eggs.

Spinelli Chardonnay Terre di Chieti

LCBO 474239 $8.40 The fresh, clean flavours of crisp Chardonnay are versatile enough to work with a variety of vegetables while adding balance to rich sauces.

SPANISH KETCHUP

I first encountered roasted red pepper sauce on top of a tapa in Barcelona—this version is a bit sweeter but no less delicious.

1 cup (250 mL) roughly chopped jarred roasted red or piquillo peppers

1 tbsp (15 mL) tomato paste

2 tsp (10 mL) sweet smoked paprika 2 tsp (10 mL) ground cumin

1 tbsp (15 mL) sugar

2 tbsp (30 mL) sherry vinegar

2 cloves garlic

1 tsp (5 mL) salt

1 Remove 2 tbsp (30 mL) liquid from jar of roasted peppers and add to blender along with all other ingredients; process until very smooth. Pour into a small pot and bring to a simmer over medium heat; cook for 7 minutes or so until thickened. Transfer to a small glass jar or bowl, cover and refrigerate until chilled (ketchup will last for a week in fridge).

Makes 11/4 cups (310 mL)

ROASTED GARLIC & SAFFRON ALIOLI This alioli and the Spanish ketchup work beautifully together so don’t fear dolloping a spoonful of each on a slice of frittata, your favourite burger, alongside grilled fish or spread on a sandwich.

8 cloves roasted garlic (see TIP)

1 egg yolk

1 tbsp (15 mL) water

1 tbsp (15 mL) lemon juice

Pinch saffron

1 cup (250 mL) grape-seed oil

½ cup (125 mL) grassy extra virgin olive oil Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

1 Work the roasted garlic into a paste with the side of a chef’s knife. Add to the bowl of a stand mixer (or large bowl) along with the egg yolk. Beat on low speed with the whisk attachment (or with an electric mixer) until combined.

2 In a separate small bowl, combine the water, lemon juice and saffron; set aside.

3 Turn mixer to high speed and add the grapeseed oil, drop by drop at first, then in a slow drizzle once you’ve added about a third. Continue at a slightly faster pace until you’ve added all the grape-seed oil and mixture is thick and pasty. Reduce speed to low and beat in 1 tbsp (15 mL) of the saffron mixture. Increase to high once again and slowly drizzle in olive oil. Whisk in remaining 1 tbsp (15 mL) saffron mixture. Season to taste with salt and pepper; chill (mayonnaise will keep in refrigerator 7 days).

Makes 2 cups (500 mL)

TIP

To prepare roasted garlic, cut top off (in order to expose cloves) as many heads as you wish to roast; place in a piece of foil large enough to enclose. Drizzle with 1 tsp (5 mL) olive oil per head, wrap snugly and place in a 400°F (200°C) oven (or covered grill) and cook for 45 minutes or until cloves are very soft. SPICED PLUM SALAD This simple plum salad is great with pound cake or even served alongside ice cream. Let the salad sit for a few hours before serving. Use whatever plums you can find but avoid purple lateseason plums, the kind used to make prunes, as they are fibrous and somewhat flavourless.

2 lbs (905 g) assorted plums

Juice of 1 lime

2 tbsp (30 mL) honey

¼ tsp (1 mL) Chinese five-spice powder ¼ tsp (1 mL) coarsely ground black pepper 2 tsp (10 mL) ginger juice (see TIP)

1 Cut small plums in half and large plums into wedges; remove and discard pits. Add to a large salad bowl.

2 In a separate small bowl, whisk together lime juice, honey, five-spice, pepper and ginger juice; pour over plums and gently toss. Cover and refrigerate until chilled, to allow flavours to develop. Salad is best eaten within 2 days.

Serves 6 to 8

TIP

To make ginger juice, finely grate peeled ginger (you’ll need a heaping tbsp/15 mL plus for each tsp/5 mL of juice) and add to a fine mesh sieve. Using your fingers, squeeze ginger over a small bowl to collect the juice.

WHAT TO SERVE

G.A. Schmitt Niersteiner Late Harvest Rheinhessen LCBO 262337 $11.25 The sweet fruit and honey character of this late harvest white is a superb match for this flavourful salad, especially when served with pound cake.

Viticoltori Acquesi Brachetto d’Acqui Sparkling

LCBO 375667 $14.05 This traditional sweet sparkling red from the Piedmont region of northern Italy allows the natural sweetness of plums to shine.