“We chose 15,000 gauss be­cause that’s the high­est we could mea­sure in Switzer­land, which cov­ers 99 per­cent of all mag­netic fields”

DA MAN - Caliber - - INSIDERS -

with an MRI ma­chine. We chose 15,000 gauss be­cause that’s the high­est stan­dard we could mea­sure with the anti-mag­netic ma­chine in Switzer­land. Maybe the watch is more than that but it is at the very least re­sis­tant to 15,000 gauss, which ba­si­cally cov­ers 99 per­cent of all mag­netic fields that you en­counter ev­ery­day. Mo­bile phones, hair dry­ers, you name it. So it’s very rel­e­vant. Sure, we can do the same thing like in the olden days with some sort of a cage cov­er­ing the watch, but that would be lim­it­ing the de­sign. You can’t make a ladies watch or have a see-through case-back like this. It’s an en­tirely dif­fer­ent tech­nol­ogy. With the Master Chronome­ter, you can make any de­sign you want, skele­ton if you will, and it’d still be anti-mag­netic. DA: How dif­fi­cult is it to im­ple­ment such a new stan­dard for a move­ment? SU: We ac­tu­ally wanted to launch the col­lec­tion at the end of last year, but it was de­layed be­cause we had to master the tech­nol­ogy to pass this Master Chronome­ter cer­ti­fi­ca­tion. Just to give you an idea, we sent the move­ment to COSC first (the Of­fi­cial Swiss Chronome­ter Test­ing In­sti­tute) and they sent back the move­ment with the COSC-ap­proved stamp. Then we placed the wind­ing stem (ro­tor) on the move­ment for the au­to­matic pieces. But that process al­ready changed the move­ment’s properties a lit­tle. So we had to ad­just the move­ment af­ter­wards.

When the move­ment was put into a watch­case by a watch­maker, again we mon­i­tor the vari­a­tion in per­for­mance. This was ba­si­cally the third check,

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